A Garden is a Place

October in the Garden

2011-10-03T19:51:00.000-07:00

Fall color is showing up in the form of Sedums, Anemones, Buddleias, Hydrangeas, Roses and Many Ornamental Grasses. We can thank the recent rain for this colorful rebound, but it has also caused some havoc as well; causing powdery mildew, leaf spot and various other fungal problems. Often the best control is a thorough raking and cleaning up of leaves to reduce the spread. Other garden chores for October:

Clean, repot and bring in your houseplants. Keep an eye out for freezing temperatures, but I leave my Christmas cactus out as long as possible to try to get it to bloom at Christmas (rather than Thanksgiving). The Christmas Cactus needs 12 to 14 hours of dark each day to trigger the set of blooms, and there is some evidence to show that bright outdoor lights may upset this process so be sure your plants are shaded from artificial light to ensure good bud set.

Spring Flowering Bulbs, if you haven’t made your selections yet, there are lots of good deals and places to get bulbs. The key to selecting healthy bulbs is to pick ones that have weight to them. Pick your bulbs as you would an onion or clove of garlic – meaty, not mushy or dry. And remember to augment your selection of Daffodils, Crocus and Tulips with other beauties. For easy April blooms try: Chionodoxa, Scilla and Muscari. For May to June blooms try: Alliums, Hyacinthoides, Leucojum and Eremurus.

And if you buy more bulbs than you can finish planting, remember to store them in a cold (not freezing!), dry location for the winter, like an unheated basement or garage. Then in the early spring you can pot them up and force them for indoor bloom.

Start your Amaryllis bulbs for Holiday blooms, many species of Amaryllis take 8 weeks or so to bloom. When potting up Amaryllis, remember to keep the top 1/3 if the bulb above the soil. If you brought your bulbs indoors in August, it is best to repot the bulbs with new soil.

October is still a great time to plant trees and shrubs, the ground typically wont freeze until mid December so plants should have several weeks of root growth before going completely dormant.

Lawns are bouncing back from the heat and lack of rain this summer, an application of fertilizer now will help your existing lawn grass to rebuild its stores before the onset of winter. It is still mild enough to seed bare spots in your lawn, especially now that the crabgrass is dying back. Keep mowing your lawn until it stops growing, which can be well into November. Rake leaves early and often before they get matted and moldy, this can save a lot of lawn related headaches.

August Garden Chores

2011-08-01T16:49:00.000-07:00

It is hard to talk about gardening without commenting on the over 100’ F heat we recently escaped. And the recent water restrictions imposed by the Dedham Westwood Water District, must make us think responsibly about water use. But don’t despair when looking across dried lawns and crispy perennials, instead keep in mind that long, slow watering, which allows the water to trickle down deep into the soil surrounding your plants roots will provide most plants with the water they need to survive. And as for the plants or new plantings with higher water needs, rain barrels can help, if we continue to have these periodic rain storms then these kinds of barrels are a great way of capturing that rain water and allowing you to use it when you need it most. For larger properties, wells can be a great way of dispensing larger quantities of water.

Weeding is a perennial chore (pun intended) and this year is no exception, so keep at it. Although in some situations it may seem as though weeds are “Shading your perennials or veggies,” remember they are stealing the water and nutrients from them as well, so weed, weed, weed.

Bleeding heart (Dicentra) and Oriental poppies (Papaver) – now is a good time to dig up and divide these plant roots while they are dormant. Cut the root into sections about 2” long, and then plant each section as if it were a new plant, or pot some up to give to friends.

Praying Mantis blending in with Hydrangea leaves.

‘Good Bugs’ – I seem to mention a multitude of insects that are attacking your garden plants. But remember there are insects, which we want in our gardens, they act as pollinators, soil builders and predators of the ‘bad bugs’. When you consider using pesticides and insecticides in your yard, keep in mind these beneficial bugs and ask for products, which specifically target your problem bugs or consider ‘green solutions’. Beneficial Bugs include: Bees which help pollinate and make our flowers beautiful; Lady Bugs which eat aphids, scale and mites; Praying Mantis which eat a multitude of ‘bad bugs; and Lacewing which eat caterpillars and leaf hoppers.

Reseeding your lawn, late August through September is best time of year, whether you are repairing bare patches or creating a new lawn. And remember that seed needs a little bit of water every day to germinate effectively, just enough water to moisten not down the seeds. Consider keeping your lawns longer, mow at 2 1/2” to 3”. The UMass Turf department states that longer blades of grass correlate to deeper roots (and deeper roots need less frequent watering).

And if you haven’t done it yet, don’t forget to move your potted Amaryllis into a cool, dry area. They should be allowed to dry out until repotting time in October.

July in the Garden

2011-07-13T15:09:00.000-07:00

Vacation Time! In July (and certainly in this heat) many of us head out on vacation and leave our gardens unattended. If you are among this happy crew or even if the humidity is keeping you from many of your gardening activities, here are a few helpful tips to keep your garden growing beautifully through July.

Water, water, water – Supplemental water (not rainfall) is best applied by soaker or other ground level irrigation methods, which quickly gets the water where the plants need it – to the roots. Long infrequent watering, deep soakings once or twice a week are best for most established plants and plantings. While transplants or new installations may require daily watering to compensate for their less extensive root system. Ask a neighbor to check in on your yard if you plan to go away for more than a week, and reciprocate the kindness. And remember don’t water in the middle of a hot, sunny day; most of the water will evaporate before it reaches the roots of your thirsty plants. Only your kids will benefit from running the sprinkler at lunchtime.

Mulching. If you haven’t mulched your garden yet this year, you can still do so to good effect. Proper mulching (about 2 to 3” deep) can help reduce water evaporation at the root level where plants need it the most, it helps keep down weed (which compete with your plants for sun, water and other nutrients; and it keeps the soil temperature up to 25’ cooler which promotes better root development. Remember DO NOT mound mulch around the trunks of trees or shrubs!

Also mow and water your lawn before you leave town for an extended period of time. When mowing your lawn follow the 1/3 rule. Cut no more than 1/3 of the grass blade in a single mowing. This reduces the stress to the remaining blade and ensures the clippings are small enough to be left in place for ‘mulching’ as they quickly decompose. The best schedule I have found is to water your lawn in the early morning and then mow in the early evening. This way cut blades are not exposed to the drying heat of the day.

Other garden chores for July: Prune sucker growths on tomato plants, Apple trees and other fruit bearing trees for the best fruit production. Suckers are additional shoots, which form where a leaf connects to the main stem.

When harvesting blueberries, remember to leave them on the bush for several days after they have turned blue for the sweetest flavor. Netting your bushes will help prevent the birds from eating your berries before you do.

Deadheading (removing spent blooms) of many annuals and perennials such, as Salvia, Marigolds, Nepeta, Zinnias and others will encourage repeat blooms.

Check List Survivor

2011-06-01T18:03:00.000-07:00

Last summer was hot, this winter was tough... even if that were not the case I always seem to find excuses for why a plant didn't survive in my garden. I think a lot of gardeners do that, like a botanical 'don't speak ill of the dead' mantra. But I probably see a lot more plant failure than most, you see the purpose of my garden is to try new plants and to see how they perform before I go designing them into client's gardens. A veritable testing ground for new plant cultivars and varieties, and as with all tests I do expect a certain number of failures.

The hale and hardy performers, with many 'checks' from the list.

But I digress, what I really wanted to tell you about was a success, an unlikely survivor. A clematis with huge blooms set off by unusual stamen, the sort of plant which produces one or two "Wow" blooms rather than relying on volume to attract attention. In essence, not my normal plant. Because I am trying plants for clients, I usually look for plants which provide more than one interesting feature. And actually I have a kind of check list, and the best plants fulfill a few items on my landscape check list - for instance 1) Multi season interest 2) Extended bloom time 3) Insect and disease resistant - and so on. This little treasure just had really cool blossoms, and absolutely nothing else. So, I planted it anyway. That was two years ago. The first year, not much happened. The clematis leafed out, but didn't grow that tall, and no blooms. Last year, remember I mentioned it was hot? Well Clematis don't really like heat, so it didn't do much. I don't even remembering it getting as tall as the previous year, and there were certainly no blooms. At that point, I started to remember why I have the check list, what does this plant do other than bloom? Oh right, nothing.

And then this spring, as I was weeding away along the fence, I looked but didn't see any sign of the bloom-less beauty. Another failure I thought, and made a note to cross it off 'the list'.
So yesterday (You know this is going to have a happy ending - right?), I am weeding away in my Monarda, and see this:

Clematis 'Crystal Fountain'

Out of no-where, no higher than my Monarda and pointing right up to the sky so you had to be in the bed to find it. Look at the color, and the very cool, fluffy stamen. Beautiful, isn't it. Sometimes I guess that is the only check you need.

May Garden Chores

2011-05-09T15:05:00.000-07:00

May means flowers to me, and this May has been rewarding so far. With Lilacs (Syringa sp), Dogwoods (Cornus florida) and Crabapple Trees (Malus sp) in full bloom all over town, winter is just a fuzzy memory. For anyone who can’t get enough of Lilacs, the Arnold Arboretum has an incredible array of different Lilac cultivars and species in bloom right now, from the Common Lilac (Syringa vulgaris), to Hybrid Lilacs (Syringa x chinensis) and Meyer Lilacs (Syringa x meyeri) stop by for a sweet sniff or visit their website www.arboretum.harvard.edu for more information.

Things grow and change quickly in May so here is a list of gardening chores and tips to help keep you on track:

Malus "Sugar Tyme"

The Wintermoth caterpillar is active again, and munching away at the leaves of Maples, Crabapples, Cherries and other trees. This destructive little green caterpillar, which looks very much like an inchworm, can defoliate your trees in a very short period of time. If you suspect your trees are infested or you had trouble with them last year, contact your arborist or landscape professional for assistance. There are organic treatments to control this non-native pest.

Fertilize bulbs blooming right now with 5-10-5 or similar fertilizer if you are planning to perennialize them (get them to bloom next year). Work about a teaspoon into the top of the soil around each clump. And leave the leaves; they are still gathering energy for next year’s blooms. Some bulbs like Tulips are often treated as annuals because of the pests, diseases and level of care needed to effectively perennialize them.

If you haven’t fertilized your lawn yet, now is a great time (May, September and November are the best times). Use a spring fertilizer or one with a ratio of 4-1-2 or 3-1-2 (nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium). And leaving the lawn clippings on the grass after you mow also helps to return nitrogen to the soil.

Now is also the time to sow your annual flower seeds and vegetable seeds such as eggplants, peppers, potatoes and tomatoes. Plant these seeds directly in the soil. It is also very easy to grow many herbs and veggies in pots on a Deck or in a Patio space. This close proximity to the house can make it easier to monitor their watering and possible attack from bunnies and other pests.

Prune back the winter damaged leaves and branches allowing for more sunlight and air circulation for the new growth to thrive. I have seen quite a bit of “Sunburn” damage this year, especially to Rhododendrons, which may have gotten too much sun from the reflective snow cover this past winter. But by now you should see new buds and new growth on the plants, which is a sign that they will bounce back. The exception is of course plants in deep shade, which may need another week or two to show signs of life; and our garden teenagers who “sleep until noon” meaning they may not leaf out until late May (Clethra, Itea and Hostas to name a few).

Be careful to dump out rainwater collecting in accidental places, remember that mosquitoes can develop in standing water that remains for more than 3 days.

Remove stakes, tree wraps and guy wires from trees planted last fall. They can pose long-term problems for trees if left on too long.

To help in your selection of a new or replacement tree, visit the Arnold Arboretum or Mt. Auburn Cemetery. Both locations accurately label their plant material and seeing trees, as mature specimens and seeing them ‘off-season’ will help you make an informed decision.

Thank you to everyone who has sent in ‘Questions for Cory’, keep those great questions coming. I will try my best to answer those questions here.

Q. Last week I removed the winter mulch from my perennial garden as things were slowly starting to grow. And this week it is full of weeds! What happened?

A. Suddenly spring! In the past 2 weeks our Growing-Degree-Days (GDD – which is the internal clock for many plants) has doubled and triggered a lot of activity in the plant world, seemingly all at once. Unfortunately, this includes weeds. If you can’t get to weeding all areas your garden this week, then I recommend focusing on those which are flowering right now such as Dandelions, creeping Veronica, Chickweed and Garlic-Mustard a biennial plant and prolific seeder. Otherwise, those weed flowers will turn into weed seeds and those weeds will spread. And remember the old garden adage – “One year of weed, equals seven of seed.” Guess I’d better finish this up and get to weeding myself!

STOP VOLCANO MULCHING!

2011-05-02T07:16:00.000-07:00

Volcano mulching is the nic-name for the VERY BAD practice of installing mulch literally up the trunks of trees thereby creating what looks like a “Volcano” of mulch from which the tree trunk is erupting. (see below for a partial list of reasons WHY this is BAD).

An example of "Volcano Mulching" - a VERY BAD practice.

There are many reasons why "Volcano Mulching" is detrimental to the long term health of the tree, here are a few:

Trunk Rot - Bark tissue is different from root tissue and not "designed" to be continually moist or submerged. Covering the trunk with mulch will keep the bark moist and eventually the bark will decay, this will further lead to insects and disease feeding on the decayed tissue and eventually the tree (or shrub) will die.
Suffocate/ Girdle the tree – Tree roots collect oxygen for the tree, the surface roots are now smothered by too much mulch so the distressed tree will send out little capillary roots into the mulch. Unfortunately these little roots are now above the soil line and subject to summer heat and winter frost damage and if they manage to survive these afflictions the roots grow larger encircling the thee trunk and eventually girdling or choking itself.
Thirsty Tree - In the image above the slope is pushing water away from the tree before it has a chance to absorb into the ground. And the mulch is so thick, it is highly unlikely that rainwater could penetrate that mound and reach the tree roots where the water is needed.
Home for pests – Mice, voles, insects etc. now have a comfortable home right next to your tree trunk and they can feast away undetected. Poor tree!

Did I mention that this is a BAD practice?

Proper application of mulch can be helpful, especially when establishing new plants:

Keep Soil Cooler in heat of summer

Reduce water evaporation

Reduce soil erosion from wind (and water runoff)

Proper application of mulch should not submerge the tree flange let alone cover the bark. And it should not be deeper than 2" to 4" (at the most!).

Spring is Really, Really Here!

2011-04-26T10:34:00.000-07:00

The birds are singing, the bulbs are blooming, kids are riding their bikes and my mailbox is full of glossy plant catalogues, it must be spring. If your green thumb is itching, here are some tips to get your garden underway:

Narcissus poeticus and Hyacinthoides "White City"

Start your own vegetable garden with spinach, lettuce, carrots and radish seeds. If you have not grown vegetables before, consider growing your vegetables in containers, which can be more easily monitored and work your way up to an in-ground plot.

Remove old mulch from your perennial beds, as weed seeds are likely to be hding in there. And gently cut back any remaining perennial husks, the snow cover should have acted as a wonderful insulation for most perennials. But there are some late arrivals, like Crocosmia don’t give up yet if you see some bare spots. They may just be sleeping in.

Dedham Civic Pride has started planting annuals in the pots around Dedham, and they look lovely. But keep in mind that it is still early for most annuals other than Pansies. And keep in mind that Saturday, April 30 is Dedham Civic Pride “Clean Up Day” check their website for more details http://www.dedhamcivicpride.org/.

The best way to keep weeds out of your lawn is to keep your lawn grass healthy. Tune up your mower (sharpen the blades so they don’t tear the grass), rake, lime and fertilize. And if you are looking for an organic way to green your lawn and protect its roots from disease causing fungi I have seen excellent results with Actino-Iron.

Prune the dead areas of your rose canes, start by cutting back to a live bud on the green area (live cane) Apply 10-10-10 fertilizer.

Consider increasing your shrub border and reducing lawn area. A well-designed shrub border can provide 4-season interest with less maintenance and less water us than a typical lawn.

Check your Hemlocks (Tsuga canadensis and Tsuga caroliniana) for the wooly adelgid. Look along the underside of branches for fluffy white matter. These are the eggs. If you find some on your trees you can treat with Horticultural oils (which are safe for humans and wildlife) on dry days when the weather is over 45’, or consult a certified arborist.

Thank you to everyone who has sent in ‘Questions for Cory’, keep those great questions coming. I will try my best to answer those questions here.

Q. I transplanted multiple forsythia cuttings from the back of my yard to the front several years ago. They seem fine and healthy but they have never turned yellow. Each year they shoot leaves that simply go directly to green without ever turning yellow.

A. Great question! And the two most likely culprits are

1) Not enough sun - Even though Forsythia will grow in almost full shade, it does not reliably flower unless it is in full sun. This means they will keep growing every year, getting bigger and looking healthy but without the yellow spring blooms.

2) Pruning (or deer grazing) - Forsythia blooms on old wood not new spring growth, so if pruning shears or hungry deer had their way with your plants either last summer, fall or winter they would have effectively removed this years blooms.

On a slightly different topic...

2011-02-16T08:00:00.000-08:00

The downside of owning your own small business is being responsible for the tasks you don’t like to do, for me that is the bookkeeping. But it must be done, so I sat down this morning with a fresh cup of coffee ready to barrel through it. But my brand new computer was running really, really, really slowly. Making what I hate to do, take 10 times longer than it should, anyone sense my frustration yet?

So I immediately saved what I was working on, shut everything down and restarted my computer. My first answer to everything electronic is reboot and try again. Hey, I play with plants for a living my technical knowledge is VERY limited. After shutdown, I noticed that my start up was taking longer than usual, especially for my brand new speedy mac and I immediately thought “Oh no, what did my kids download onto my computer”. This prompted my search, I won’t take you through my lengthy steps, remember my business is landscape design not technology. After this long process I found an application called Growl, BTW this only showed up under System Preferences under ‘Other’. I tried looking for it with finder and other searches, it doesn’t show up. I never installed anything called Growl so my first thought was spyware. I tried to uninstall it, but it wouldn't let me. I couldn’t drag it to the trash either.

Google Time. Turns out, Growl installed itself when I downloaded an application called Dropbox (which a colleague suggested I use to share work documents). Not only that, but Growl set itself to automatically start up with my computer (although it doesn’t show up on my start up list), and it is always running (although it doesn’t show itself as a running application). So what does this sneaky application do? I haven’t the foggiest. One blogger described it as an annoying guy following you around the house telling you “your phone is ringing”, “your dishwasher is done” and so on. Thanks, but not something I need.

So my next google search was “How do you uninstall Growl?”. The software developers of Growl want you to download an uninstall software from their website. Excuse me? That sounds wrong. I’ve accidentally deleted lots of things before, but in this case, I need a special application to delete another application? There must be another way. Growl showed up uninvited on my computer, remains hidden (from most of my search methods) and I am supposed to trust the developers to remove it by voluntarily installing another application. Does anyone else find this odd?

Ok, so more searching finds forums filled with other queries similar to mine “How did Growl get on my computer?”, “Is Growl a Virus?”, “How do I get rid of Growl?” and so on... at least I am not alone. But I can’t find a complete answer. I found out how to stop it from running, how to disable it from Dropbox, and how to stop it from opening at start up. But I still can’t get RID of it. Apparently neither can others, most forum responses follow this line “It isn’t doing anything just leave it.” or “You may want it in the future” but this isn’t enough for me. If someone walked into my house, uninvited, I would want them to leave. Even if they were not eating my food or using my hot water, I would want them OUT of my house.

The good news is that my computer is running MUCH faster now that I turned this application off, and therefore I can get back to my bookkeeping (maybe not so good). But I still want to delete this application from my computer, and I don’t want to install another application to do it. So, thoughts anyone?

Finally, the Application of my dreams!

2011-02-08T09:52:00.000-08:00

Truly the Bible of the plant industry, Michael Dirr's "Manual of Woody Landscape Plants", is finally in an App form for your iPhone or iPad called "Dirr's Tree and Shrub Finder". Complete with pictures, cultural characteristics, identification tips, propagation notes and all the other info you have come to expect, nay rely on! This nifty app also allows you to search based on a multitude of criteria.

No longer will I have to schlep around the 20lb hardcover "Hardy Trees and Shrubs" book to show clients pictures! Now what do I do with the well worn text book I've had since college? Yes, it is almost 20 years old and so full of notes, highlights, arrows, paperclips, sketches and so on it is almost a scrapbook of my career. From my initial loathing of Hydrangea macrophylla to my current love affair with the plant (now that new cultivars have made it a reliable

bloomer for 3 full months) all the way to updating the genus on certain plants (Sophora japonica now Styphnolobium japonicum) or crossing them out entirely because they are now prohibited in Massachusetts or a failure like the genetically flawed Bradford Pear (Pyrus calleryana "Bradford").

My only comment is that like my textbook from ages past, I'd like a comment area. A place to add pictures, notes, or comments. I am confident that the app will be updated with all the critical industry updates, great new cultivars, breakthroughs in breeding and hybridizing but I still want to reference and record my own observations. Maybe I'll keep my textbook around a little while longer...

October in the Garden

2010-10-05T06:01:00.000-07:00

The recent rain has made it hard to get into the garden, but plants are so happy with the recent turn of weather. You can see it in lawn grass, which is greening up all over town and in the renewed vigor of some of our late bloomers like Anemones, Hydrangeas and the lesser known Franklinia alatamaha.

So, when the opportunity presents itself, preparing for next spring is the focus of our garden tasks this month. This means raking leaves, planting garlic, mowing the lawn and planting your spring flowering bulbs! October is still a great time to plant trees and shrubs, the ground typically wont freeze until mid December so plants should have several weeks of root growth before going completely dormant.

Pot up Amaryllis bulbs for Holiday blooms. Many species of Amaryllis take 8 weeks or so to bloom, and be careful not to over water those bulbs while waiting for growth to start!

Keep an eye out for the Asian Longhorn Beetle (ALB), not to be confused with the Western Conifer Seedbug who may be trying to over winter in your attic (like Ladybugs). The Asian Longhorn Beetle is about 1” long, a black body with white spots and long antennae. This pest attacks and kills healthy trees such as Maple, Birch, Poplar, Horse Chestnut and others. For more information on how to identify this pest or how to report a sighting go to : http://massnrc.org/pests/alb/

Mildew has been a big problem this year, especially on Monarda, Lilacs, Paeonias, and Phlox treat those infected plants with a fungicide to prevent its return next year.

Thank you to everyone who has sent in ‘Questions for Cory’, keep those great questions coming.

Q. There are some very pretty pink flowers growing out of a stand of Pachysandra (see attached), what are they?

A. They are a beautiful cultivar of Colchicum autumanale, probably “Waterlily”. This bulb, often called Fall Crocus, is best planted among ground cover as this bulb has an unusual growth cycle where by the foliage appears in the spring, without the blooms; and the blooms appear in the fall, without the foliage. A good ground cover companion masks this seasonal inconsistency. They tend to perform best in areas of rich, well-drained soil where they don’t get disturbed.

August Gardening Chores

2010-08-19T05:17:00.000-07:00

It may be hard to think of gardening in this heat and humidity, especially when looking across dried lawns and crispy perennials. But as the cooler weather promises to roll in here are some things to keep your garden growing through August.

Deadhead perennials and Annuals to encourage re-blooming. By pinching off the forming seed heads and seed pods you trick the plant into thinking it has not done its job yet (reproduction) and the plant will channel its energy into putting out more blooms.

If your lawn is crunchy don’t despair it may just be dormant and with the cooler fall temps (and a little rain) you should see it rebound. Keep on top of the crabgrass, it may look nice and green right now, but if you let it go to seed – you will regret it. Remember the old adage “One year of weed equals seven of seed” Reminding us that those weed seeds can remain viable for years to come.

And if patches of your lawn do not rebound, September is a wonderful time to reseed.

Q. My shrubs all look dead or wilted! Do I dig them up and throw them out? Anonymous, Dedham

A. This is a great question, but hard to answer as it will vary from one plant to the next. In general, newer plantings are much more susceptible to death from this heat and low rainfall because they have fewer and shallower roots to support them. That said, healthy plants growing in areas closest to their “Cultural criteria” (soil type, amount of sunlight, level of acidity, etc.) are more likely to pull though. For instance, if you planted a Bigleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), which wants moist, rich humosy soil into your rock garden, which has dry, sandy, infertile soil, the plant may not bounce back. If instead you planted a Potentilla fruiticosa, which thrives in that rock garden environment: dry, sandy, infertile soil, that shrub may bounce back quite vigorously.

Pink Lady-Slippers (Cypripedium acaule)

2010-05-17T06:15:00.000-07:00

Walking the dog this morning, I was thrilled to discover that our native Pink Lady-Slippers (Cypripedium acaule) are up and in full bloom all along our woodland walking trails. This delicate beauty is often found in uncultivated woodland areas, preferring the dry, acidic soil and dappled light of a successional forest canopy. And I refer to these perennials as delicate, because they DO NOT transplant easily and their cultural requirements are specific.

When they are not in flower, they are often overlooked,

their basal leaves looking unremarkable before going dormant in September. Because if this, they are often at risk of getting bulldozed or weeded! This danger would be the acceptable time to try digging up and transplanting these beauties, so if you know of such a situation: William Cullina has put together a very comprehensive "Transplanting Guide" http://www.williamcullina.com/files/Download/Transplanting%20Pink%20lady.pdf

"The Right Plant for The Right Place" = Green Gardening

2010-05-15T03:45:00.000-07:00

Come and stop by the Dedham- Westwood Green Fair today at the Dedham Middle School. I'll be there all day, talking about Green Gardening. So, stop by and say Hello!
The best way to have a healthy, sustainable, glorious garden is to keep the following in mind:

1) Site Analysis – Before you plant anything you should assess the garden area. How big is the area (height and width)? How much and what kind of sunlight does it get? Do existing mature trees or a building filter the sunlight? Is it a steep slope or a flat area? Is it exposed to drying winds and pollution? Or is it nestled between a stonewall and larger plants? Is the soil sandy and infertile, or is it moist and boggy? It is better to gather too much data than too little.

2) Right Plant for the Right Place – or choosing sustainable plants. How big and wide will the plant grow? How much sunlight does the plant need? Does it require acid or more neutral soil? Does it want Moist, well-drained, sandy or infertile soils? What diseases and pests is it subject to getting? Is it hardy to zone 5? If you can’t find an exact match, pick the closest you can and understand what you will need to supplement to care for your plant.

3) Correct Planting Procedures – New planting procedures described by UMass of Amherst Landscape, Nursery and Urban Forestry Department: Dig hole 3 times as wide as root ball and no deeper. Cut away burlap, rope and wire from root ball. Backfill with un-amended topsoil from hole. Trunk flare should be level with existing grade. Mulch from organic materials should be 2” deep, applied over the planting area and should be kept away from the trunk (NO VOLCANO MULCHING!).

4) Effective and Efficient Watering – Typically shadier spots retain moisture better than sunny ones, but a slope will drastically effect where the water penetrates the soil. On average, established trees and shrubs need only 1” of water a week so supplemental watering is most effective applied with a slow drip, allowing the water to soak in deeply rather than watering a little bit every day. The exceptions are new plantings, annuals, some perennials, some lawns and vegetable gardens, which typically require more water.

5) Eradicate Invasive Plants – Check out the list of “Prohibited Plants” in Massachusetts as put out by the Massachusetts Department of Agricultural Resources. www.mass.gov/agr/farmproducts/proposed_prohibited-plant-list-sciname.htm

May Gardening Chores

2010-05-04T09:12:00.000-07:00

The blooms of Crabapple Trees (Malus sp) and Lilacs (Syringa vulgaris) have been particularly glorious this year, and we have so many beautiful specimen all around Dedham, congratulations to everyone who has worked so hard to keep them looking healthy. Mother’s Day is Sunday, remember Mom with a lovely blooming shrub or tree. Lilac Sunday at the Arnold Arboretum is May 9th, call or visit their website www.arboretum.harvard.edu for more information.

Our early spring may have thrown your gardening calendar out of whack, so here is a list of May gardening chores and tips to help you out:
Fertilize bulbs blooming right now with 5-10-5 or similar fertilizer if you are planning to perennialize them (get them to bloom next year). Work about a teaspoon into the top of the soil around each clump. And leave the leaves; they are still gathering energy for next year’s blooms. Some bulbs like Tulips are often treated as annuals because of the pests, diseases and level of care needed to effectively perennialize them.
Also I have started to see signs of Winter moth caterpillar this spring, this is the little green insect which looks very much like an inchworm and they may be eating the leaves of your Maple, Oak, Crabapple, Cherry and other trees. If you suspect your trees are infested or you had trouble last year contact your arborist or landscape professional for assistance. There are organic treatments to control this non-native pest.
If you haven’t fertilized your lawn yet, now is a great time (May, September and November are the best times). Use a spring fertilizer or one with a ratio of 4-1-2 or 3-1-2 (nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium). And leaving the lawn clippings on the grass after you mow also helps to return nitrogen to the soil.
Now is also the time to sow your annual flower seeds and vegetable seeds such as eggplants, peppers, potatoes and tomatoes. Plant these seeds directly in the soil. It is also very easy to grow many herbs and veggies in pots on a Deck or in a Patio space. This close proximity to the house can make it easier to monitor their watering and possible attack from bunnies and other pests.
Move your houseplants outside when evenings become reliably warmer. Remember they need to be acclimated; if you move a plant from the house to a full sun area chances are it will burn. Try moving them first to a shady spot in your yard and bring them out gradually. I put my houseplants under a big old Rhododendron, and I leave my Christmas cacti there until October.
And last but not least - Weed, weed, weed your garden. ‘One year of weed equals seven of seed’ if you let those annual weeds grow and set seeds you will be haunted by their offspring for years to come. Many annual weed seeds can remain dormant for years just waiting for the right time to come back and haunt you.

Q. I recall lilacs (Syringa vulgaris) blooming around here about first or second week of May each year. I wonder if late April is unusually early, and if so what could be the cause?
A. Good question, and yes many plants are blooming “earlier” this year, and you may see some non-typical crossovers (plants blooming simultaneously which don’t normally bloom simultaneously). Bloom times are not clock work, estimated bloom times are based on averages, but this spring is “early”. As for “the cause” I won’t speculate on climate change as that is not my area of expertise, but I will say that soil temperature triggers many plants to start growing. More precisely described it is the accumulated warm soil temperature days, commonly referred to as Growing-Degree-Days (GDD), this year we have had 138 GDD since the first of the year. This is very high. UMass Amherst tracks GDD for most of Massachusetts, and I checked their archives and found that at this time last year we had 87 GDD but in 2008 we had 111 GDD. So, what does this mean for your Common Lilacs? They are fine with the variation in bloom schedule, as long as the winters don’t go below -25’ F and the summers don’t turn into southern Florida.

Bulb Obsession

2010-04-16T05:14:00.000-07:00

Ok, so maybe it is a minor obsession. But I do love bulbs and invariably plant new ones every year trying to squeeze in just a little more spring color, earlier spring growth and I suppose to test the limits of my already packed borders. So here is my soliloquy on early spring naturalizing bulbs, some of my favorites and some helpful tips.

Chionodoxa: So bright and so blue, their upturned faces look like spring smiles to me.

Crocus: I prefer planting them in a single color range rather than mixing the purple yellow and white. And for color "Queen of the Blues" is my favorite.

Eranthus: They are so early, and the foliage is so different from most of the other bulbs.

Fritillaria: The small F. meleagris, typically sold as a mix, although I do like to separate the colors and both purple and white are gorgeous.

Galanthus: The first bulb to bloom in my garden, right through the snow if they need to.

Narcissus: Too many to choose from, and every year I have new favorites. But one of my most reliable bloomers and naturalizers "Jack Snipe".

Tips to Care for and Plant Bulbs

If you want to ‘perennialize’ your bulbs (get them to come back next year) then “Leave the Leaves” until they yellow or turn brown. These important leaves are still gathering energy for next year’s blooms.
Most common reason that bulbs stop blooming is they get too crowded. Like perennials – dig up and divide in fall for best results.
Fertilize bulbs with 5-10-5 or similar fertilizer in the spring, after bulbs finish blooming and/or in the fall at bulb planting time. Work about a teaspoon into the top of the soil around each clump.
Photograph garden while bulbs are in bloom, to remind yourself in the fall of where you want to add bulbs, and which clumps you want to divide.
Can remove seedpods before they mature (except Scilla) to divert energy into next spring’s flowers.
Most bulbs should be planted 2 to 3 times as deep as the bulb height.
Plant in October in our area, not so warm that they put out flowers, but warm enough that they develop roots before ground freezes.
Most bulbs don’t like too much shade or wet soils. See individual culture descriptions for exceptions.
Squirrels, Moles, Voles, Deer, etc. will dig up or eat many bulbs. Planting them under dense ground cover (such as Vinca) or perennials can help. If problem continues focus on Deer and rodent resistant bulbs or use bulb cages.
Misshapen leaves often signify virus infections, dig up and discard bulbs – can spread and kill other bulbs.

First Signs of Spring

2010-03-01T07:59:00.000-08:00

Welcome March and the first signs of spring! What, you don't believe me? I promise the signs are there -early bulbs are working their way up through the mud and leaf debris, Witch-hazel (Hamamelis) is blooming, and Pieris buds are swelling. If you haven’t seen the signs yet, here are some things to look for and a few tips to get spring jumping in your garden:

The last month has been very wet and windy, so start by checking your trees, large shrubs and any garden walls or fences for damage. As go about your early spring clean up tasks try to avoid the soggy areas. Excessive traffic on a wet lawn and garden beds can cause poor aeration and root damage.

Check your houseplants for bugs; inspect the underside of leaves and any stalks for outbreaks of aphids, mealy bugs and spider mites. A simple shower with a mild soap can often stop these pests before they flourish and a stronger treatment is needed.Fertilize your emerging bulbs. If you did not get to it last fall, work a few spoonfuls of bulb fertilizer into the top 2” of soil around the emerging bulbs. Be careful not to damage the new growth.

Start your vegetable garden by sowing indoors the seeds of broccoli, cauliflower, and lettuce; but wait until late March to start your peppers, eggplant and tomatoes. If you have limited garden space, many varieties of these veggies can be grown in large pots on a sunny Patio or Deck.

Sharpen, oil and replace as necessary your garden tools before you need to use them. Hopefully you are more diligent than I, who in wandering around this morning discovered a trowel and some pruning shears hiding in the beds. The shears are beyond help, but the trowel just needs a little cleaning and it will be fine. And don’t forget to sharpen the blades of your lawnmower too!

Consider increasing your shrub border and reducing lawn area. A well-designed shrub border can provide 4-season interest with less maintenance and less water us than a typical lawn.

Thank you to everyone who has sent in ‘Questions for Cory’, keep those great questions coming. I will try my best to answer those questions here.

Q. I found a large beetle in my attic and have heard about the Asian Beetle problem in Western Mass. Is this the same issue?

A. Great question! Most likely the beetle, which found its way into your home is the Western Conifer Seedbug, they often come in through attic vents and small cracks around windows, along with Ladybugs. This beetle (Leptoglossus occidentalis) is large enough to be surprising but is essentially harmless to you, your home and your plants (unless you are trying to harvest your conifer seeds). For more information: http://ento.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/western-conifer-seedbug

The other part of your question has to do with the Asian Longhorn Beetle (Anoplophora glabripennis), which is a threat to many hardwood trees and yes there has been some very interesting and aggressive quarantining happening in Massachusetts west of Rt. 140 in an effort to stop this pests’ progress. The trees, which are most susceptible, include all Maples, Birches, Elms, Horsechestnuts, and Willows. For more information, check out the USDA info site: http://www.beetlebusters.info/

Fun in the Shade

2010-02-19T09:33:00.000-08:00

Often clients ask me, “Does anything colorful grow in the shade?” and my response is a litany of shade loving genus: “Leucothoe, Clethra, Epimedium, Acetea (formerly Cimicifuga), Heuchera, Tiarella, Bergenia" and so on. Although, it may be encouraging to hear that the list of available plants is long, pictures are often needed to illustrate the point. And I understand, I too am a VERY visual person.In this Patio garden, we have a tapestry colorful perennials ranging from part shade to full shade. Since the beds are small and human proximity is so close, we have jammed the beds full and rely heavily on texture and colored foliage to keep your eye excited and interested as you view the garden.

A close up in this bed shows the layering of plants, and notice how the dark purple red of the Actaea is picked up in the veining of the Athyrium? A happy accident, which I have since repeated, and repeated. Shown:

Epimedium, Athyriu

m and Actaea (formerly Cimicifuga).

Another close up, this in one of the shadiest areas of this garden, small details are used in this

space, because it is seen from a stationary spot so your eye has time to drink in the details. Shown: Hosta, Asarum, Dicentra, Athyrium and

When viewed from a distance, masses of shrubs and large perennials may be needed, but even in the shade many species have great foliage and blooms to brighten up dark corners.

Shown: Anemone, Itea, Cornus, Nepeta and Clethra.

Small irregularly shaped stepping-stones require

one to look

down, rewarding your eyes with this delicate spring display. Shown: Galium, Stachys and Veronica.

Even in this tough spot, east side of the house, very narrow bed and under the shade of this Cherry Tree (Prunus) these hard working plants put up a great display. Shown: Hakonechloa, Tiarella and Bergenia.

“When your work speaks for itself, don’t interrupt.”

- Henry J. Kaiser

October in the Garden

2009-10-05T08:17:00.000-07:00

Harvesting, putting your garden to bed and preparing for next spring are the biggest tasks this month. This means raking leaves, planting garlic, mowing the lawn and planting your spring flowering bulbs! October is still a great time to plant trees and shrubs, the ground typically wont freeze until mid December so plants should have several weeks of root growth before going completely dormant.

Picking pumpkins should wait until they are completely orange. They will continue to ripen on the vine as long as temps stay above freezing. If you didn’t get a chance to grow pumpkins in your own garden this year, there are some great U-Pick-It farms around. The Massachusetts Department of Agriculture has a comprehensive list by county: http://www.mass.gov/agr/massgrown/pumpkin_pyo.htm

Start Amaryllis bulbs for Holiday blooms. Many species of Amaryllis take 8 weeks or so to bloom, and be careful not to over water those bulbs while waiting for growth to start!

Lawns should be mowed for as long as the grass keeps growing. Some years that will carry into December. Your lawn will also benefit from a fall application of fertilizer, giving it the carbohydrates needed to help survive winter. Rake leaves early and often before they get matted and moldy, this can save a lot of lawn related headaches. Also, take note of areas with crabgrass, nothing can be done at the moment, but note those problem areas and apply a preemergent early next spring to get a jumpstart on controlling that weed.

Now is a great time to fertilize trees and shrubs, especially if they did not get a spring application. Do not be tempted to prune them though, until after they are dormant. Pruning now will encourage new growth and instead you want them to save their energy for winter and next spring.

Clean, repot and bring in the last of your houseplants. Keep an eye out for freezing temperatures, but I leave my Christmas cactus out as long as possible to try to get it to bloom at Christmas (rather than Thanksgiving). The Christmas Cactus needs 12 to 14 hours of dark each day to trigger the set of blooms, and there is some evidence to show that bright outdoor lights may upset this process so be sure your plants are shaded from artificial light to ensure good bud set.

Thank you to everyone who has sent in ‘Questions for Cory’, keep those great questions coming.

Q. My Iris are taking over the garden, can I move them now? Or should I wait until the spring?

A. This is a great time to divide and relocate spring blooming perennials. Siberian Iris (Iris sibirica), in particular, benefit from dividing every 3 years. If you have noticed a lack of foliage growth or reduced blooms in the center of the plant, this is most likely an indication that your Iris needs to be divided. Also, go ahead and divide or relocate hardy perennial herbs such as Mint, Chive, Oregano, Tarragon and Lemon Balm. This year many early flowering perennials were very prolific with seed production and their “Offspring” have cropped up all over the garden. Volunteers from worthy garden plants such as: Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla), Columbine (Aquilegia), Foxglove (Digitalis) and Goat’s Beard (Aruncus) can be relocated or shared with neighbors and friends.

September in the Garden

2009-09-30T07:35:00.000-07:00

September is a great time to catch up in the garden. Weeding, seeding, planting and dividing are all good chores for September, and in many cases it is the best time for landscape projects. Here are some suggestions to get you started.

Fall is a great time to also plant many trees and shrubs. Look for plants with healthy leaves and strong stems or trunks. Also take a tour of the Arnold Arboretum to see what those shrubs, trees and vines may look like in a few years. They have free, guided tours available as well easy self-guided gardens such as the Leventritt shrub and vine garden.

Divide and replant perennials such as Iris, Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum), Hosta and others that have thrived in your yard. Share the surplus with friends and neighbors, also many perennials freely self-sow (Echinacea, Digitalis, Coreopsis and others), these “Babies” are easy to dig up and share as well.

Chances are if they work in your yard they will work in others.

Reseed bare spots in your lawn, September is best time of year, whether you are repairing bare patches or creating a new lawn. And remember that seed needs a little bit of water every day to germinate effectively, just enough water to moisten not drown the seeds.

Later this month, dig up your ‘tender bulbs’ Gladioli, Cannas, and Dahlias. Trim off the brown shoots and roots and store in a cool dry place for the winter.

Start repotting houseplants in preparation to bringing them back indoors. I scatter my houseplants all over my yard, under shrubs or in bare spots in the garden and typically I forget one poor plant and lose it to frost.

Thank you to everyone who has sent in ‘Questions for Cory’. I will try my best to answer those questions here.

Q. My Hydrangeas are huge this year and I want to prune them back. Is this a good time to do it?

A. Great question. And for the most part I would say yes, but there are several species of Hydrangea and not all have the same requirements, so here is a more thorough answer. Smooth Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) – Big white blooms in June, this shrub blooms on new wood, so I would prune this shrub in winter or early spring. Most common cultivar is “Annabelle”. Bigleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) – Probably the most common Hydrangea, white or blue blooms of mophead or lace cap form. This shrub blooms on old wood so pruning should happen right after blooming stops or you run the risk of pruning off next year’s flowers. That said, the new Endless Summer hybrids have taken out all the guesswork and worry for us. These plants bloom on new and old wood, and bloom for a full 3 months, so prune these shrubs whenever you feel like it with little consequences. Panicle Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) – This shrub has made a huge comeback in standard form and with prettier cultivars. The latest blooming of the Hydrangeas, this shrub also blooms on new wood so winter or spring pruning is best. Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia) – The easiest to tell apart due to the leaf shape (shaped like Oak leaves), this shrub blooms in June on old wood so DO NOT PRUNE now! Pruning is best done in early July right after it blooms, and the flower buds can be subject to winter kill with temps below -15’. Also, keep in mind the 1/3 rule – “Never prune off more than 1/3 of a plant in one year”.

August Gardening Chores

2009-08-04T07:43:00.000-07:00

Reclaiming your garden. Weeding is a perennial chore (pun intended) but this year weeds seem to have thrived more than usual. I blame the rain, but whatever the reason, the weeds are taking over and have buried half of my perennial garden. The half, which seemed to be doing the best this year are part shade plants which were not overwhelmed by all the rain and lack of sun this summer. For instance Daylilies (Hemerocallis), False Dragon’s Head (Physostegia) and Fall blooming Windflower (Anemone) have bloomed quite vigorously this year and spread. So this fall will be a wonderful time to divide those plants, and maybe share some with friends or neighbors.

Powdery mildew has been a real problem this summer with the rain and high humidity, this

fungi looks like baby powder coating leaves of perennials, shrubs and even trees. The fungus can be treated with a fungicide or even a simple solution of baking soda. Also, make sure that

there is plenty of air circulation around the plant. If your Monarda, Roses, Paeonias and Phlox (etc.) are infected, thin out the plants and dispose of the infected leaves (not in your compost!) as the fungus can over winter.

Bulb catalogues are starting to fill up mailboxes. Before you place your order, find those pictures of your spring garden and determine which bulbs are ready to be divided or moved and then select your additional plants. Keep in mind that bulb planting shouldn’t start before October. You can get some great discounts by ordering early and responsible companies won’t ship them until proper planting time. But for the others, be sure you have a cool, dry place to store your bulbs until you can plant them.

Consider keeping your lawns longer, mow at 2 1/2” to 3”. The UMass Turf department reminds us that longer blades of grass directly correlate to deeper roots (and deeper roots need less frequent watering).

Thank you to everyone who has sent in ‘Questions for Cory’. I will try my best to answer those questions here.

Q. I would love to see you post some advice, and or pics of pruning a lilac. I have one that is 8 feet high, gangly and in need of a severe pruning.

A. This is such a great question, and Common Lilac (Syringa vulgaris)

does get gangly and top heavy and a healthy plant can rebound quickly from very aggressive pruning. So don’t be shy.

Here is how I typically approach rejuvenating or “hard pruning” Lilacs: start by taking out the oldest wood, the gnarly, desiccated branches in which insects are probably making homes. If they have open cavities, signs of borer insects or breaks then prune them all the way to the ground, if they are relatively healthy, then hard prune them leaving 18” from ground to top of branch.

Step back and look at the shrub, and surrounding area. Chances are the growth is at the top third of the plant, and the plant is probably 3’ taller than you want it to be. Which means that you will be removing 90% of the foliage to bring the shrub down to the height you want. For a Common Lilac (Syringa vulgaris), this is OK. Next step, I take out about half of the main branches, so if you have 12 main branches to your shrub, pick the 6 oldest, weakest, or most poorly shaped and prune them to the ground. Leaving 6 strong, straight and healthy branches. Then, if you want your ultimate shrub height to be 5’, prune your remaining branches to 4’ tall (1’ less than desired height). This picture shows a Lilac 4 weeks after we pruned as described above. Notice all the healthy, new growth at the base of the plant. This new growth will continue to grow and "fill in" the skeletal area framed by the old branches left behind.

There are lots of other methods and approaches to pruning Common Lilacs (Syringa vulgaris). And healthy Lilacs will tolerate almost anything, so feel (to use my daughters new favorite word) empowered and go for it. This method is not the same you would use for other shrubs or other species of Lilac, like Meyer Lilacs (Syringa meyer “Miss Kim”) or other small leaved Lilacs, which have a different growth habit and often a single main stem.

The best time to prune Lilacs is early June, after the blooms have faded. But if you missed the window and can’t wait until next year, just be sure to fertilize your shrubs after pruning, and water regularly for the next two months. And keep in mind that Lilacs (like other European plants) benefit from annual liming.

And my last note on Lilacs, I have seen scale (Peach scale?) and aphids on a lot more Lilacs this year. And scale is a nightmare to get rid of, so be sure to clean your tools between pruning jobs, especially if sharing with neighbors. It will help slow the spread of some of these insects.

July Gardening Chores

2009-07-01T10:28:00.000-07:00

With all the rain we have had this June, watering has not been a big issue in the garden. But the lack of sun has presented some challenges. Many sun-loving annuals (Including vegetables) are significantly smaller than normal at this time of year, new grass has not filled out (lawns need water and sun to get established) and many plants are infected with powdery mildew, fungi and rusts. Treat these infected plants now, clip off and discard the damaged leaves. Also wash your pruning shears after doing so, to reduce the spread of infection to other plants in your yard.

With July on the way, watering will probably take a front seat in the garden chores department again. And proper watering techniques are crucial to your plants continued health and growth though the summer. Long, soaking watering sessions a few times a week is best. These deep soakings are best for most plants and plantings other than germinating seeds. Use soaker hoses or other ground level sprinklers to quickly get the water where the plants need it – to the roots. Running your lawn sprinklers

at mid-day, in full sun on a hot day, is not efficient watering. Most of the water will evaporate before it reaches the roots of your thirsty plants. This can also scorch the leaves of many garden plants, similar to applying baby oil to your skin and running around in full sun.

“Volcano Mulching” is NOT a good mulching practice.

This method of mulching is actually the exact opposite of any known proper mulching technique. Mulch SHOULD NOT touch the bark or trunks of trees and shrubs, applying mulch in this fashion will only invite mildew, fungus, insects and diseases to move in. Also if the mulch is highest around the trunk and lowest at the outside drip line, you are pushing all the water away from the tree or shrub

roots. “Proper Mulching” (about 2” to 3” deep) should be flush to grade or create a “water well” (small lip of mulch encircling the trunk) about

the same width as the root ball. Mulching in this Proper Mulching fashion can help reduce water evaporation at the root level where plants need it the most, it helps keep down weeds (which compete with your plants for sun, water and other nutrients; and it keeps the soil temperature up to 25’ cooler which promotes better root development.

Also if you are heading off on vacation this month, mow and water your lawn before you leave. When mowing your lawn follow the 1/3 rule. Cut no more than 1/3 of the grass blade in a

single mowing. This reduces the stress to the remaining blade and ensures the clippings are small enough to be left in place for ‘mulching’ as they quickly decompose. The best schedule I have found is to water your lawn in the early morning and then mow in the early evening. This way cut

blades are not exposed to the drying heat of the day.

Other garden chores for July: Prune sucker growths on tomato plants, for the best fruit production. Suckers are additional shoots, which form where a leaf connects to the main stem. And to avoid blossom rot or cracking of the tomato skin, keep the soil around your tomato plants evenly moist. Mulching can help.

Deadheading (removing spent blooms) of many annuals and perennials will encourage repeat blooms. Also an aggressive prune of many perennials such as Nepeta and Salvia now, will promote new growth and flowers for late summer.

And towards the end of this month, stop watering any Amaryllis you are trying to hold over from last winter (even if it has green leaves), and move them to a cool, dark spot (unfinished basement is what I use). Leave the bulbs in their pots untended until October. A colleague of mine recommended turn the pots on their side so you don’t accidentally water them.

Thank you to everyone who has sent in ‘Questions for Cory’, keep those great questions coming.
Q. I have a Bleeding Heart on the side of my house along the driveway, next to a row of large Hostas. It was the first plant to show it's head this spring with lots of beautiful deep pink blossoms. It looked so healthy and vibrant, but now the leaves are starting to look dried out (even though I water when we don't get a lot of rain). Do you know what this could be or what I can do?
A. I suspect your first instinct is correct, and your Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis) is drying out. Dicentra is a great shade plant, like Hosta, but it is a bit pickier about soil. Dicentra prefers cool and moist soil, and being next to a driveway can be a tough location. Even if you are watering, in the summer the sun heats up the driveway and that heat dries the surrounding soil. If (after the past week of cool and rainy weather) the plant perks up, and you can see new growth at the soil level, this would be a good indicator that your Dicentra should be moved. Try Narcissus (Daffodils) in the same location for an early spring bloom, they did not mind the dry summer soil.

June Gardening Chores

2009-06-09T07:00:00.000-07:00

Blooming has been incredible this year, from the Lilacs, Viburnums, and Rhododendrons to some lesser known plants including Kolkwitzia (Beauty Bush) which has pink flowers with yellow throats. This large, vase shaped, old fashioned shrub is blooming with abandon right now, but goes unnoticed the rest of the year, even the deer don’t seem to find it attractive. I have also been asked frequently about Cladrastis (Yellow Wood) a mid size, fast growing tree which has had fragrant white blooms dripping all over it the past few weeks. Both are at the end of their bloom cycle now, but are hardy and relatively pest free plants.
Garden chores for June: Prune! A good rule of thumb is to prune a woody plant after it finishes blooming which means now is an excellent time to tame your Syringa (Lilacs), Rhododendrons, Wisteria, Viburnums and Pieris. This way you can shape them as needed without sacrificing next year’s blooms.

Set out your vegetable transplants on a cloudy day to prevent wilting. When buying vegetable plants it is better to purchase stocky ones rather than tall spindly ones.

After harvesting your spring lettuces and radishes, Plant fall harvest crops such as beans, turnips, late cabbage and Brussel Sprouts. It is also a good time to mulch your garden to help keep the weeds down and the moisture levels up.

Father’s Day is June 21th, give dad a special treat and mow the lawn for him. Or help him weed out the crabgrass. Young crabgrass is fairly easy to pull out (be sure to get the roots), and spot seed bare areas with a “patch” mix (typically a blend of mulch and lawn seed). This will help keep the seed moist to encourage germination as the days and nights get warmer.

Consider keeping your lawns longer, mow at 2” to 3”. The UMass Turf department states that longer blades of grass correlate to deeper roots (and deeper roots need less frequent watering).

The Red Lily Beetle is active and laying eggs. This beetle eats the leaves of all true lilies (Lilium spp) and Frittillaria, and they can decimate those plants. They do not eat Day Lilies (Hemerocallis spp). You can easily hand remove the bright red beetles from the Lilly leaves and dispose of them, but also check under the leaves for the slug like egg masses and remove those as well.

For new plantings, soaker hoses get the water to the root level rather than wasting it on the leaves. And don’t water in the middle of the day on a hot, sunny day. This includes lawns. The water will evaporate before it gets to the roots, and may even cause scorching (sun burn) on the leaves of some plants.

May Gardening Chores

2009-05-01T07:01:00.000-07:00

Spring is in full swing, and just in time for Mother’s Day, May 10! For a Mother’s Day gift that last longer than cut flowers, consider planting a tree or shrub for Mom. There are some excellent bloomers this month including: Silverbell (Halesia tetraptera): Low branched tree with white bell shaped flowers and grey striped bark; Crab Apples (Malus sp): densely branched tree blooming white, pink or red; Koreanspice Viburnum (Viburnum carlesii): Mid size shrub with white blooms of the sweetest scent; Little leaf Lilac (Syringa patula “Miss Kim”): Rounded densely branching shrub with fragrant blooms, not as large or gangly as common Lilac but with an excellent fall color. Lilac Sunday at the Arnold Arboretum is also May 10th this year, call or visit their website www.arboretum.harvard.edu for more information. Also, keep in mind that if you wish to avoid the crowd, the shrubs are in bloom before and after this date.

May is a glorious time in the garden and also a very busy month for garden chores; here are some tips to help keep your garden on track this month.

Prune back the winter damaged branches allowing for more sunlight and air circulation to encourage the new growth. I have seen quite a bit of “Sunburn” damage this year, especially to Rhododendrons, which may have gotten too much sun from the reflective snow cover this past winter. But by now you should see new buds and new growth on the plants, which is a sign that they will bounce back. The exception is of course plants in deep shade, which may need another week or two to show signs of life; and our garden teenagers who “sleep until noon” meaning they may not leaf out until late May or occasionally June (Clethra, Itea and Hostas to name a few).
It is also a good time to sow your annual flower seeds and vegetable seeds such as beets, carrots and radishes. Plant these seeds directly in the soil. It is also very easy to grow many herbs and veggies in pots on a Deck or in a Patio space. This close proximity to the house can make it easier to monitor their watering and possible attack from bunnies and other pests.

Consider a system for collecting and storing rainwater, which you can then use when your plants are thirsty, like those 90’ days we have experienced already this spring. The systems come in a variety of sizes, styles and complexities from a simple barrel (with lid to prevent mosquitoes and other pests) to some of the newer “rain harvesting” systems which collect, filter and store water to be used by the homeowner for watering or creating a sustainable water feature in your garden.

Fertilize bulbs blooming right now with 5-10-5 or similar fertilizer if you want them to bloom next year. Work about a teaspoon into the top of the soil around each clump. And be sure to ‘Leave the Leaves’ until they turn brown, they are still gathering energy for next year’s blooms. Some tulips were hard hit by the heat wave, this is a good reminder that even in April supplemental watering may be necessary. And with proper care these bulbs should also return next year.
Fertilize your lawn, selecting a product with at least 30% of the nitrogen in a slow release formula. Check the your lawn grass for tearing after you mow, you may need to sharpen your mower blades. Ragged cuts turn the grass tips brown a day or two after mowing and can allow diseases to enter the grasses.

And last but not least - Weed, weed, weed your garden. ‘One year of weed equals seven of seed’ if you let those annual weeds grow and set seeds you will be haunted by their offspring for years to come. Many annual weed seeds can remain dormant for years just waiting for the right time to come back and haunt you.

April Gardening Tips

2009-04-07T09:49:00.000-07:00

The birds are singing, the Crocuses are blooming, kids are riding their bikes and my mailbox is full of glossy plant catalogues, it must be spring. If your green thumb is itching, here are some tips to get your garden ready:
This spring is much wetter than last year, which essentially is good for the plants, but as you go about your spring clean up tasks avoid the soggy areas. Excessive traffic on a wet lawn can cause poor aeration, one of the reasons ‘Rolling lawns’ in the spring is no longer a preferred practice.

The best way to keep weeds out of your lawn is to keep your lawn grass healthy. Tune up your mower (sharpen the blades so they don’t tear the grass), rake, fertilize and apply limestone every three years. Add some limestone to your Lilacs (Syringa) and Lavendar (Lavandula) too.

Begin removing mulch from your perennial beds, and gently cut back any remaining perennial husks, you may be surprised at how many new sprouts are starting already. If you are using mulch to protect tender plants keep the mulch down a bit longer, the days are warm but it is still dropping into 30’s in the evening.

Start your vegetable garden with spinach, lettuce, carrots and radish seeds. If you have not grown vegetables before, consider growing your vegetables in containers, which can be more easily monitored and work your way up to a dedicated plot.
Prune rose canes; you should be able to determine the ‘dead areas’ now, start by cutting back to a live bud on the green area (live cane) Apply 10-10-10 fertilizer.

Consider increasing your shrub border and reducing lawn area. A well-designed shrub border can provide 4-season interest with less maintenance and less water us than a typical lawn.

Check your Hemlocks (Tsuga canadensis and Tsuga caroliniana) for the wooly adelgid. Look along the underside of branches for fluffy white matter. These are the eggs. If you find some on your trees you can treat with Horticultural oils (which are safe for humans and wildlife) on dry days when the weather is over 45’, or consult a certified arborist.

Thank you to everyone who has sent in ‘Questions for Cory’, keep those great questions coming. I will try my best to answer those questions here.

Q. Do you have any suggestions for an easy to grow fruit that my kids will enjoy? They don’t eat many vegetables but I want to grow something we can all enjoy.
A. Try Strawberries and Blueberries both are relatively easy to grow and pest free, except for the birds and animals that will try to eat them. Strawberries can be easily grown in containers, and plants can be treated as annuals or as a multi-year crop. Lowbush Blueberries (Vaccinum angustifolium) grow wild all over New England and grow less than a foot tall, but produce very sweet little berries. Highbush Blueberries (Vaccinum corymbosum) are also native, but the hybrids and cultivars (ranging in height from 4’ to 12’) produce much sweeter berries than the wild shrubs. The hardest thing about growing blueberries is keeping away the birds until harvest, netting helps and truly the fruit tastes best when allowed to ripen fully on the bush.

Q. I put some bulbs in my garage last fall and somehow forgot that they had not gone into the ground. Any suggestions as to what I should do with them at this point? The box appears to be “growing” a bit!
A. This happens more often than you would expect! If you have left over bulbs, which did not get planted, first check them to see if they are still viable. A healthy bulb should feel firm and fleshy like an onion or head of garlic. If it feels mushy or light and dry then they did not survive. Plant the survivors in old terra cotta pots and place them in a cool, dark area to encourage root growth for a few weeks, then move them into sun to encourage blooming or plant directly in your garden.

Delightful Distractions

2009-03-31T09:12:00.000-07:00

It started with a few leaves around a cluster of crocuses, the rain had finally stopped and I want to encourage those crocuses to bloom so I pulled away the matted leaves. Then I saw the tiny blue Chionodoxa blooms, which always make me think of smiles, and I needed to free them from the last vestiges of winter’s grasp. This included the husks of old Iris leaves, which I cut back to discover the tiny new green Iris siberica growth, tinged with red; and the Narcissus dotted throughout. Needless to say, I had to keep going.

Denied the sheer joy of “fingers in the earth” for the past four, cold, winter months, I felt ravenous as I tore through the garden debris and on to each new emerging promise of a beautiful spring. On and on I went, stopping only to grab a new lawn and leaf bag, or another garden tool – knowing full well I should be in my office getting work done – but feeling giddy from the joy of all these new treasures growing. A clump of new Narcissus I planted last fall can’t wait to see the blooms! Trusty Geranium sanguineum, Potentilla fruiticosa and Nepeta “Walker’s Low” already unfurling their leaves. An old stand of Campanula persicifolia putting up new leaves, like Phlox subulata, Iris germanica and Iberis sempervirens the low foliage stays green(ish) all winter! Which is key for breaking up those swaths of winter dirt when your perennials are dormant.

Alas, all good stories must come to an end. And my tale ended with a phone call, finally dragging me into my office, a bit stiff from lack of practice, but truly invigorated from my little foray. I guess I am lucky that dirty nails and knees give me ‘street cred.’ in this business.

Maintaining winter sanity with indoor bulbs

2009-03-02T05:56:00.000-08:00

After 2 weeks of increasingly warm temps, I had lulled myself into believing that spring was on its way. Of course, Mother Nature slapped me back to reality as I awoke to peals of laughter and “Snow Day!” echoing through the house.

As if to make a small peace offering, my Freesia did begin to bloom and the fragrance has excellent restorative powers. I have always loved forcing bulbs indoors, having grown up in New England I have found the need to creatively garden indoors during the long winter months. Bulbs are an excellent way to surprise yourself, bring a little extra something to your normal repertoire of houseplants. There are the usual casts of characters, most often grown for the Christmas season: Amaryllis (the choice of colors and shapes is staggering), Paperwhites (the easiest of the Narcissus for indoor blooms), Hyacinths and so on. And for the most part, if you tire of them, toss them when they are done. But this year is the first time I tried Freesia and I have not been disappointed.

For anyone who has bought Freesia for cut flowers, the fragrance is sweet but not overpowering like Narcissus “Ziva”. The foliage is nothing to write home about, and it takes 3 months to bring newly planted bulbs to bloom (similar to Amaryllis), but my patience has rewarded me with 2 dozen stalks of Freesia blooms in varying states of bud swell/bloom. And I will therefore survive a few more weeks of winter. The trick to forcing Freesia is to be sure your newly planted bulbs get LOTS of sun and not too much heat. I would think grow lights would be perfect, but I put mine in a south facing window, and watered them nearly every day. The cultivar I selected is Freesia “Volante” which is a double form, and although it was purported to be white I think the blooms are more ivory or cream. I planted up 3 pots, with 8 or so bulbs in each (Freesia bulbs are small reminding me of Allium caeruleum) and they are leggy, I keep turning the pot to lean against the window. I have never been fond of staking, but it could be laziness.

Veltheimia bracteata is a tried and true indoor bulb, which I treat as a houseplant. Unlike most bulbs the leaves remain viable year round, and it is quite long lived which means annual blooms without the challenging extra step “winterizing”. And they are excellent glossy green leaves, similar to Amaryllis but with a softer wave to them. In fact, when I first received this bulb (about 15 years ago), I thought it was an unusual Amaryllis and treated it very similarly. Planting with the top third of the bulb above the soil, growing in medium light (East facing window), and put it outside in the summer, keeping it in dappled to low light, and initially I did “Winterize” it like Amaryllis but later found it unnecessary. It seems to like infrequent repotting, there are now 4 bulbs in 1 pot and the blooms have become more reliable when crowded (like Clivia). My fertilizer regimen is sporadic, but I have top-dressed the soil. This beauty has a funky bloom, which starts in February (when very little is happening!) and lasts 4 to 6 weeks. Is anyone else growing this sleeper? If so, I’d love to hear stories of success, or challenges. I would definitely recommend giving it a try, the only common name I have heard used is “South African Cape Hyacinth” which is too much of a mouthful and could be very misleading as it is not like a Hyacinth!

…now where did I put that Snow shovel?

Punxsutawney Phil says... More Ice?

2009-02-02T06:29:00.000-08:00

Not that I think anyone is surprised, but Punxsutawney Phil predicted 6 more weeks of winter. Happy Groundhog Day?

As a gardener, I appreciate the snow cover acting as a blanket for many of my plants, especially some of those funky new perennials in my trial garden. But the ice is a nightmare this year. From the ice dams on the roof to the low point where my driveway meets the street, the battle against ice has raged for several weeks now and I have clearly been losing.

So this brings me to Eco-friendly/Green ice melt options. Do they exist? Do they work? Are they truly eco-friendly? I did a little on-line reading over the weekend, and gleaned a bit of information if not knowledge.
I found 3 products which seem to be the most promising (I am not endorsing anything here, just blogging!) but I would love to hear back from others on this as well.

1) Safe Paw by Gaia Enterprises – This seems to be the easiest to find, sold in some grocery and pet stores. There is no salt used, although I am still unclear as to the active ingredients (crystalline amide core infused with special glycols is the most detail I could get). And it claims to work in temps a couple degrees below 0.
2) Environmelt by Kissner – The active ingredient on this product is the chemical compound CMA (calcium magnesium acetate), which is purported to be non-corrosive, safe to use and biodegradable, but it also seems to be the most expensive.
3) IceClear – A liquid preventative, so it is best applied before the storm, with any spray equipment (Hort oil or fertilizer pumps seems to fit the bill). It’s compound is “potassium carboxaylates, carbo-hydrates and a corrosive inhibitor” effective to -50’F.

As always buyer beware, but seems to me that steering away from salt or salt-based products is the important first step. The next step is determining your need for your situation and then using only what you need. Remember too much fertilizer can burn or even kill plants, and fertilizer is a common substitute for salt in ice melt. And after all is said and done, I am still not sure of the cumulative effects of any of these products have on ground water or fish populations. But I’d love to hear!

A garden is a place, not an object.

2008-12-18T05:19:00.000-08:00

Years ago when I used to teach classes at the Dedham Community House this was one of the hardest ideas to teach because we were all sitting in a class room either looking at slides, books or playing with little pieces of tracing paper. But every now and then a student would bring in a picture (or series of pictures) which showed space, usually back yard space and I would doodle a little something on the trace over those pictures and their eyes would light up and they would understand and see the potential of how their space could become the outdoor room of their dreams.

Historically the word garden referred to a place outside, like your yard or a portion of your yard. But unfortunately we have all become so micro-focused that we have reduced ‘garden’ to a thing – like a perennial bed or a planting of annuals. It reminds me of a cell phone ad campaign ‘Micro Man’ (a few years ago) where the people are so focused on details they missed all the funny things happening around them. Until this miraculous phone shows them the big picture. It is the same in the garden, you need to step away from the things and take a wider view and see the space. Don’t focus on that one azalea that keeps dying or that one patch of grass under your Maple tree which is always brown, step back further and look at your whole garden – do you have a garden or has your yard been reduced to a thing?

You need to walk into a garden to experience it, like your living room, or wherever you go to enjoy a cup of coffee or read a book or play with your kids or whatever activity brings you joy. Then you have a garden. A three-dimensional space, which draws you out of your home and helps to reconnect you with the world outside your kitchen door.

Tree removal = New Opportunities

2008-11-23T06:33:00.000-08:00

Despite the bitter cold this week, work in the landscape goes on. Tree work. On this property we had a situation where a dozen Red Pines (Pinus resinosa) had been in decline for years and removed them to contain the spread of the Diplodia tip blight. They had been under an arborists care for several years, trying to manage the disease but we lost this fight, and decided to remove these trees to stop the spread to neighboring Pine species.

The upside to tree removal is new opportunities. First, there is a big gap after removing 12 trees, lots of potential for new plantings! And we have the winter to consider rethink and redesign that area. Second, making adjustments in the landscape. For instance, in one section a Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida) had been crowded out, caught between 3 Pines and a couple Rhododendrons, this constrained growing area had started to malform the trees shape (see image below). The tree has not shown signs of Dogwood Anthracnose and is otherwise in great health. I am so excited to see how it responds to its new openness and more sunlight and should start to balance out its shape quickly.

Anyone interested in learning more about Diplodia Tip Blight (Spaeropsis sapinea) or Dogwood Anthracnose (Discula destructive), the Cornel University website has very readable and helpful “Fact Sheets” including photos to help id symptoms and of course suggestions for treatment strategies. Link Here: http://plantclinic.cornell.edu

"A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they know they shall never sit in." --Greek proverb

November's Orchids

2008-11-18T14:22:00.000-08:00

As the New England weather turns cold and our landscapes go dormant, the insatiable gardener turns indoors for our fix. And where better to inhale the scent of humus soil and dripping perfumed flowers than the Boston Flower Market. If you are not in the trade get a friend to take you, because with the New England Flower Show having closed, it promises to be a long winter unless you have frequent flier miles and lots of friends down south to visit.

This week the Orchids were in awesome display! Waves of elegant white blooms, which were truly breathtaking. But in just another week or two the display will be entirely Christmas, from Boxwood trees to Pointsettias and Amaryllis.

The Right Plant for the Right Place

2008-11-17T06:09:00.000-08:00

The Right plant for the Right place. No one plant will be happy in every location, there are some plants, which seem to survive anywhere, but even a daylily has its limits.

The key is plant culture – the closer you get to putting a plant in its ideal location the happier and more stress tolerant it will be. Conversely a stressed out plant (one who is struggling to survive) may throw in the towel after a tough year like last summer and winter. Just like humans – if things are going well in our lives and we are happy a traffic ticket may catch us off guard but we can take it in stride. If we are having a bad week – boss yelled at you, kids lost their third sweater in 2 weeks and your husband forgot about the Momma Maria tickets and scheduled and important business meeting out of town. Then when you get pulled over for speeding, you just may start to cry for real.

1) Site analysis – What are the different areas of your yard? Full sun, part shade, slope, exposed or protected, infertile soil, etc. Knowing this first helps you to select the “Right plant for the Right place”.

2) Culture of plant – magic formula. What does the plant prefer? Acid or more neutral soil? Full sun, sun, light shade, part shade, and full shade? Moist, well-drained, sandy or infertile soils? Hardiness Zone (heat and cold tolerance)? Try to stick to the ‘does best in’ criteria as much as possible – if you can’t find an exact match, pick 3 out of 4.

3) Correct planting procedures – For Shrubs and Trees - Start by digging the hole 3 times the width of the plant’s root ball but no deeper. Digging the hole deeper than root ball can result in the plant being too deep due to settling. Be sure to expose the tree flare to determine proper depth, the flare is where the trunk or branching stops and the roots begin. Backfilling the hole should be done with existing surrounding soil not peat moss or other soil amendments.

4) Water efficiently - Do you have plants that are never happy? Review their culture maybe they would be happy somewhere else or maybe you just need to try a different plant. Do you have an irrigation system? Do you get it checked annually? Is it set up to vary with the different water needs of different plants? (i.e. North side of house doesn’t need as much as south; trees and shrubs, once established, need less than lawn and Perennials). Remember too much water is often deadlier to plants than too little water.

March in the Garden

2008-11-15T11:06:00.000-08:00

Winter lasted a little bit longer than Punxsutawney Phil predicted this year, but finally the ice is receding and the ground is beginning to thaw. And I suspect that spring will happen very quickly when it finally comes. So be prepared.

It is hard to tell to what extent the extreme cold and ice of the past month or so will have on our landscape plants. We may see some drying out and burning damage on broadleaf evergreens since the bitter cold set in before we had any protective snow cover, but we won’t see the full extent of this damage until the weather warms further. The solid ice cover over large expanses of lawn may create a problem…...

The Hemlock Wooly Adelgid appears to have taken hold again and has been active all winter. This is the insect, which appears as a white cottony mass on the underside of Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis and Tsuga caroliniana) branches. If left untreated this non-native pest can kill even mature Hemlocks in as little as 3 years. Horticultural Oil spray and a systemic including Merit are the most popular treatments for this pest, but contact your arborist for more specific information on how to care for your trees. The Arnold Arboretum research study on this pest is expected to be completed this fall, this is the foremost study on this pest, which began in 1997. If you would like more information on this, check out their website: www.arboretum.harvard.edu/research/hemlock_hill.html

To help in your selection of a new or replacement tree, visit the Arnold Arboretum or Mt. Auburn Cemetery. Both locations accurately label their plant material and seeing trees, as mature specimens and seeing them ‘off-season’ will help you make an informed decision.

The New England Spring Flower Show opens Saturday, March 12 and runs through Sunday, March 20 at the Bayside Expo Center in Boston. This year the theme is ‘A Fresh Perspective’ for more information visit The Massachusetts Horticulture website at www.masshort.org.

Q. When does season start for tapping Maples trees and how long does it last?

A. Great Question! And like most ‘crops’ harvesting depends on the weather. Last week when we had warmer days the sap of our Native Sugar Maples (Acer saccharum) started to flow, and tapping began in certain areas. According to the Maple specialists at UVM, the Vermont season is typically from March 1 to March 20 with optimal temperatures of 40 deg F during the day and 25 deg F at night. Vermont is well known for Maple Sugar production (or sugaring) but we have a number of Sugar Shacks here in Massachusetts as well. And many of these are open to the public for fun outings. For more information www.massmaple.org has listings of local activities and sugar shacks.

Questions for Cory?
Send to: Cory Landscape
PO Box 1059
Dedham, MA 02027

April in the Garden

2008-11-15T11:04:00.000-08:00

We have had a few sunny days promising a glorious spring around the corner, the Crocuses, Chionodoxa, Galanthus and Scilla are in bloom and Magnolia buds are swelling. My fingers are itching to get into the garden and along with starting my spring clean up and I have been able to divide a few Crocuses and plant a few bulbs I kept cold (not freezing!) over the winter. If you were lucky enough to receive arrangement of potted, forced bulbs (like Grape Hyacinths or Daffodils) you can transplant them into your garden after the blooms have passed, for a perennial show next spring. Be careful if your soil or lawn is still wet, too much traffic on a wet lawn can cause compaction and reduce oxygen to the plant roots with adverse effects later in the season.

The Hemlock Wooly Adelgid (HWA) appears to have taken hold again and has been active all winter. This is the insect, which appears as a white cottony mass on the underside of Hemlock (Tsuga canadensis and Tsuga caroliniana) branches. There is finally some good news in the area of a biological control for HWA a scientist in the Canadian Forest service has identified a beetle, Laricobus nigrinus, which feeds on HWA, research and testing is underway. For more information check out this website: www.invasive.org/hwa/laricobus.cfm Please note - if you have infected Hemlocks, and are currently treating them do not stop. This beetle is great news for the future, but HWA can still kill a mature tree in 3 to 7 years if untreated. Horticultural Oil is a topical treatment which can be applied this month when temperatures are at least 45’ F (and not freezing for 48 hours after application) also Imidacloprid is a systemic which can be injected into the soil or tree trunk but severely damaged trees may not be able to transport the pesticide to the infected areas in this case tree removal or Hort oil is the best solution.

Winter Moth this pest is my other nemesis, and early indications are that the insect was actively breeding over the winter and the “little green caterpillars” may be out again in force this spring. Check fruit trees Crabs, Cherries, etc. for caterpillars and other pests. If you noticed a lot of moths flying around outside in November and December that was probably the cankerworm moth and the caterpillars usually start to feed on tree and shrub buds just about now. Can treat with horticultural oils or consider hiring a certified arborist.

Apply pre-emergent crabgrass killers to your existing lawn now. This stops the annual weed seeds from germinating (starting to grow). The grass we want in our lawns is a perennial (comes back every year) and the existing lawn grass won’t be effected by the pre-emergent.
Begin removing mulch from your perennial beds, and gently cut back any remaining perennial husks, you may be surprised at how many new sprouts are starting already. Also check the depth of landscape mulch, the optimum depth should be 2” to 3” deep and should not touch or cover any plant leaves, branches or trunks. Improper application of mulch can be very damaging to plants.

Remove stakes, tree wraps and guy wires from trees planted last fall. They can pose long-term problems for trees if left on too long.

Thank you to everyone who has sent in ‘Questions for Cory’, keep those great questions coming. I will try my best to answer those questions here. This question is a repeat from 2 years ago, but it is still a hot topic here in Dedham.

Q. I have a real problem with Skunks digging up my lawn, how can I get rid of the problem without dumping a lot of chemicals on my lawn?

A. Skunks, moles and voles love to eat white grubs (many of which are Japanese beetle larvae), which are feeding off your grass roots before they change into beetles and eat the rest of your garden plants. Your best non-toxic defense in this case is multi-staged. For March to May, The Mass Audubon Society recommends loosely placing fruit netting over the lawn areas under attack by the skunks, birds and mammals don’t like walking across the netting and are therefore discouraged. In the summer when the beetles are on the attack if you keep their numbers down they will produce fewer offspring. Trapping, hand picking, and even vacuuming the beetles can do this, as can encouraging their natural enemies (such as nematodes, cardinals and Spring Tiphia). In late summer and early fall keep your lawn grass longer (and soil temperature cooler), several studies have shown that the shadier cooler areas are less attractive to the grubs. And finally there is Milky Spore Disease (Bacillus popilliae) a bacteria like Bt mentioned earlier, which attacks only white grubs and is harmless to the beneficial insects in your yard, humans, mammals, birds, etc.

Questions for Cory?
Send to: Cory Landscape
PO Box 1059
Dedham, MA 02027

May in the Garden

2008-11-15T11:02:00.000-08:00

We finally got the rain we needed, and the warm weather is returning. Keep an eye on any plants, which may have started to show signs of drought stress in late April before the rain. They may need a little TLC this year to fully recover, supplemental watering and fertilizer, keep in mind that drought stress can appear months after the drought occurred. Overall you should be able to determine how your plants fared this winter. Even the late to leaf plants should be waking by now, (Clethra, Itea and Hostas to name a few) what I call the teenagers of the plant world – those that stay up late in the fall and sleep late in the spring. There was a lot of deer grazing this past winter, and they seem to be sampling items not typically on their menu. I suspect it is due to a combination of factors – increasing deer population; homeowners are better protecting their favorite plants and reduced woodland grazing areas. But aside from the deer, I have seen a lot less plant death this year than I have in the past, which is great news!
Because of the crazy weather garden tasks may be slightly off our calendar, for instance those things we would ordinarily do in April we will attend to in May we can take these cues from Mother Nature also called phenology.

To help your lawn look its best, apply preemergence herbicides for crabgrass and annual grasses now. Remember to rake, de-thatch and clean out turf areas before applying these herbicides. If you have large areas of thatch consider reseeding areas instead of applying preemergent. Treating broadleaf weeds should wait another 2 weeks.

Weed, weed, weed your garden – ‘one year of weed equals seven of seed’ if you let those annual weeds grow and set seeds you will be haunted by their offspring for years to come.
Prune rose canes; you should be able to determine the ‘dead areas’ now, start by cutting back to a live bud on the green area (live cane) on Shrub and climbing roses. Floribundas and Hybrid Tea roses should have their canes cut back to 18” tall. Apply 10-10-10 fertilizers.

Be careful to dump out rainwater collecting in accidental places, remember that mosquitoes can develop in standing water that remains for more than 3 days.

Remove stakes, tree wraps and guy wires from trees planted last fall. They can pose long-term problems for trees if left on too long.

Thank you to everyone who has sent in ‘Questions for Cory’, keep those great questions coming. I will try my best to answer those questions here.

Q. I would love to be able to take some cuttings from one of my Forsythia and start new bushes in another area. Would this be possible and if so how?

A. What a great question! Forsythia is actually quite easy to root from soft woodcuttings; softwood is the softwood is the newer growth (typically more yellow than brown) and more flexible, hence soft. You will want to cut several branches off your Forsythia about 1' long, again you want to find the youngest, softest for this process. Prepare some small pots for rooting 4" pots are great or whatever you have handy, add a light potting soil and make small holes (pencil sized) and put 2 or 3 stems in each pot with the fresh cut end down in the soil. Rooting powder is great but not necessary for Forsythia. Trim back the stems if needed, pinch off any leaves, which may touch the soil, or any new buds. You want the energy to go into root development not leaf production. Then moisten the soil thoroughly. Place the plants in an area, which gets morning sun (but shaded from the hot afternoon sun) and sprits daily like you would seedlings. You can also use large clear plastic bags as makeshift ‘terrariums’ just be sure to use stakes to keep the bag away from the stems and leaves and check moisture level periodically – as with all non-aquatic potted plants moist but not wet is best.

Questions for Cory?
Send to: Cory Landscape
PO Box 1059
Dedham, MA 02027

June in the Garden

2008-11-15T11:01:00.000-08:00

Well I have stopped praying for rain. And then I think back to the drought a few years ago and refrain from asking for the rain to stop, if we truly get what we ask for I had better think very hard before I make my next wish. The good news is that this wet spring has extended the bloom time of many plants this season, giving us a wonderful display of Iris germanica, Rhododendron and Syringa (Lilacs) among others. But it has caused some late season bloomers to “sleep in” and many shrubs like Clethra, Hydrangea and Itea may be just leafing now. If you haven’t seen any signs of life, I would give those plants one more week to before proclaiming them garden casualties.

Poison Ivy (Toxicodendron radicans) has also been thriving in this weather, so keep an eye out it can act like a vine or ground cover and I have seen it cropping up all over Dedham. When in doubt remember, “Leaflets three, let it be” it is not always tinged with red and if you have had bad reactions to it in the past, consider hiring a professional to help you eradicate the Poison Ivy. Things to keep in mind while dealing with Poison Ivy: Every part of the Poison Ivy plant is toxic, bruising of the plant releases an oil called “Urushiol” and individuals have varying reactions to this toxin. This oil persists in dormant and dead plants so protect yourself by wearing gloves, a long sleeve shirt and long pants (tuck your sleeves into your gloves and your pants into your socks) and be sure to thoroughly wash all your clothing and tools when you are done! Do not burn this plant the toxin can be inhaled! If you touch Poison Ivy by accident, wash the area immediately with soap and COLD water (warm water may open up your pores and allow the oil to penetrate your skin faster). Consult a physician if the reaction is severe. At this time of year herbicides are your best option for killing/controlling Poison Ivy, look for herbicides containing glyphosate or triclopyr and be sure to follow the directions carefully, repeat applications will almost certainly be necessary. There is a silly but helpful website www.poison-ivy.org with lots of images and helpful information.

Lawns grow so fast in this wet weather, and at times it may seem hard to keep up with mowing. When this happens don’t be tempted to mow the grass to its ideal length all at once or you will stress the grass blades. Keep in mind the 1/3 rule, cut no more than 1/3 of the blade of grass in a single mowing, wait a few days and repeat until you get your lawn back to the desired length.
After harvesting your spring lettuces and radishes, Plant fall harvest crops such as beans, turnips, late cabbage and Brussel Sprouts. It is also a good time to mulch your garden to help keep the weeds down and the moisture levels up (not that moisture is a problem this year!).
The Red Lily Beetle is active and laying eggs. This beetle eats the leaves of all true lilies (Lilium spp) and Frittillaria, and they can decimate those plants. They do not eat Day Lilies (Hemerocallis spp). You can easily hand remove the bright red beetles from the Lilly leaves and dispose of them, but also check under the leaves for the slug like egg masses and remove those as well.

Thank you to everyone who has sent in ‘Questions for Cory’, keep those great questions coming. I will try my best to answer those questions here.

Q. I read in your article about the “Invasive Plants” which we are not supposed to use in Massachusetts anymore, but I still see Barberry for sale at some Nurseries. Are they selling these plants illegally?

A. No, but that is a good question and I get asked about his new ban often so I think it will take a while for everyone to get used to these new restrictions. To reiterate, the Department of Agricultural Resources enacted the Massachusetts Prohibited Plants ban January 1, 2006. This ban includes 140 plants considered “Invasive or Noxious” in the Commonwealth of Massachusetts and it prohibits the sale or importation of those 140 plants. However, there are some “phase-out” caveats for some of the more prodigious plants like Barberry (Berberis thunbergii), in this case Barberry can be imported into Massachusetts until July 1, 2006 and if it is already being propagated in this state, those specimen can be sold until January 1, 2009. This does not guarantee that you the consumer will be able to find these plants through 2008; I am very interested to see how quickly our local nurseries sell off their existing stock, how this is managed and what happens to demand. But enough of my musings: For more information and a complete list of the 140 plants on the Massachusetts Prohibited Plant List visit the Massachusetts Department of Agricultural Resources Web site www.mass.gov/agr/farmproducts/Prohibited_plant_Index2.htm.

July in the Garden

2008-11-15T10:56:00.000-08:00

Proper watering! With all the threatening storm systems, which have not come through (what a tease!), we have had so little rain. So, it is very important to water properly. Long, soaking watering sessions a few times a week is best. These deep soakings are best for most plants and plantings other than germinating seeds. Use soaker hoses or other ground level sprinklers to quickly get the water where the plants need it – to the roots. Established lawns, trees and shrubs and many perennials typically need only 1” to 2” of water or rainfall, even in July. Running your lawn sprinklers at mid-day, in full sun on a hot day, is not efficient watering. Most of the water will evaporate before it reaches the roots of your thirsty plants. This can also scorch the leaves of many garden plants, similar to applying baby oil to your skin and running around in full sun.

Mulching. Remember DO NOT mound mulch around the trunks of tree or shrubs! If you haven’t mulched your garden yet this year, you can still do so to good effect. Proper mulching (about 2” to 3” deep) can help reduce water evaporation at the root level where plants need it the most, it helps keep down weed (which compete with your plants for sun, water and other nutrients; and it keeps the soil temperature up to 25’ cooler which promotes better root development. Mulch SHOULD NOT touch the bark or trunks of trees and shrubs.

Also if you are heading off on vacation this month, mow and water your lawn before you leave. When mowing your lawn follow the 1/3 rule. Cut no more than 1/3 of the grass blade in a single mowing. This reduces the stress to the remaining blade and ensures the clippings are small enough to be left in place for ‘mulching’ as they quickly decompose. The best schedule I have found is to water your lawn in the early morning and then mow in the early evening. This way cut blades are not exposed to the drying heat of the day.

August in the Garden

2008-11-15T10:54:00.000-08:00

It may be hard to think of gardening in this heat and humidity. But as the cooler weather promises to roll in here are some things to keep your garden growing beautifully through August.

Bleeding heart (Dicentra) and Oriental poppies (Papaver) – now is a good time to dig up and divide these plant roots while they are dormant. Cut the root into sections about 2” long, and then plant each section as if it were a new plant, or pot some up to give to friends.

Reseeding your lawn, the middle of August through September is best time of year, whether you are repairing bare patches or creating a new lawn. And remember that seed needs a little bit of water every day to germinate effectively, just enough water to moisten not down the seeds.

Consider keeping your lawns longer, mow at 2 1/2” to 3”. The UMass Turf department states that longer blades of grass correlate to deeper roots (and deeper roots need less frequent watering).

Q. Do Mulberry trees start out like the infamous Mulberry bush as in the ‘Pop goes the Weasel’ rhyme or planted as a regular tree?

A. I think there are a couple questions in here, not the least of which is when is a large Shrub/ Bush considered a small tree? However, this is a wonderful opportunity for me to get on my soapbox and illustrate the importance of Botanical Taxonomy (or Latin Names). Mulberry is a common name or nic-name, and like a nic name they are sometimes easy to trace back to the real name (Bob is usually short for Robert); but sometimes they are whimsical like ‘Cookie’ or ‘Bunny’ or describe a characteristic like ‘Spike’ or ‘Red’. In the case of ‘Mulberry’ I found three separate Genuses, which claim Mulberry as their common name, some of which are shrubs and some of which are trees. Genus is a group of plants with common characteristics, which probably evolved from a common ancestor (so correlating back to human equivalent: everyone in Dedham with the last name Jones). Another way of looking at this is that 3 different Genus can be as varied as: Acer or Maple tree, Iris (a perennial) and Rhododendron. So what is the answer to Margot’s question? Buyer beware – know what kind of plant you are buying, if you want a shrub don’t buy a tree. I tried to do a bit of research to find out which plant is referred to in the rhyme, but there is a lot of conflicting data out there. I suspect Morus nigra (Black Mulberry) is the plant of rhyme but I can’t be certain. In any case check the name in italics – that is your Botanical nomenclature and it will give you more specific and reliable information than a common name.

Questions for Cory?
Send to: Cory Landscape
PO Box 1059
Dedham, MA 02027

September in the Garden

2008-11-15T10:51:00.000-08:00

Spring flowering bulbs – Planting bulbs is one of my favorite fall projects, plant bulbs in groups of 3’s and 5’s for best display and put them right in between your summer and fall blooming perennials. There are so many excellent bulbs available, new and exciting cultivars look for Daffodils (Narcissus), Grape Hyacinths (Muscari) and Alliums for deer resistance. And try Fritillaria, Chionodoxa, and Camassia bulbs for something a little bit different. When selecting bulbs choose ones with some weight and firmness. Bulbs, which feel like dried husks, are probably not healthy. Shop for bulbs now while the selection is good but wait until the weather cools until you plant them.

Divide and replant perennials such as Iris, Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum), Hosta and others that have thrived in your yard. Share the surplus with friends and neighbors, also many perennials freely self-sow (Echinacea, Digitalis, Coreopsis and others), these “Babies” are easy to dig up and share as well. Chances are if they work in your yard they will work in others.
Reseed bare spots in your lawn, September is best time of year, whether you are repairing bare patches or creating a new lawn. And remember that seed needs a little bit of water every day to germinate effectively, just enough water to moisten not drown the seeds.

Later this month, dig up your ‘tender bulbs’ Gladioli, Cannas, and Dahlias. Trim off the brown shoots and roots and store in a cool dry place for the winter.
Start repotting houseplants in preparation to bringing them back indoors. I scatter my houseplants all over my yard, under shrubs or in bare spots in the garden and typically I forget one poor plant and lose it to frost.

Thank you to everyone who has sent in ‘Questions for Cory’. I will try my best to answer those questions here.

Q. My Lilacs are leggy and overgrown, is September a good time to prune them?

A. Not if you want blooms next spring. All Lilac shrubs (Syringa) bloom on old wood, this means the flower buds for next spring have already been set on your plants. A good rule of thumb for pruning flowering shrubs is right after they finish blooming, and for Lilacs this means Late May or June depending on the species. Lilacs are very long-lived plants and they do respond well to rejuvenation pruning when, as you stated, they become leggy and overgrown. This is most often the case with Common Lilacs (Syringa vulgaris) but it can also be the case with Manchurian Lilacs (Syringa patula), Littleleaf Lilacs (Syringa microphylla) and other species as well. Rejuvenation or Renewal pruning is aggressive and requires complete removal of several old branches at ground level, which then allows sunlight and air into the lower portion of the plant and invigorates new growth. Keep in mind the 1/3 rule – “Never prune off more than 1/3 of a plant in one year”.

Questions for Cory?
Send to: Cory Landscape
PO Box 1059
Dedham, MA 02027
cory@corylandscape.com

October in the Garden

2008-11-15T07:22:00.001-08:00

October’s Objective – Putting garden to bed and Preparing for next spring. This means raking leaves, mowing the lawn and planting your spring flowering bulbs! October is still a great time to plant trees and shrubs, the ground typically wont freeze until mid December so plants should have several weeks of root growth before going completely dormant.

Spring Flowering Bulbs: if you haven’t made your selections yet, there are lots of good deals and places to get bulbs. The key to selecting healthy bulbs is to pick ones that have weight to them. Pick your bulbs as you would an onion or clove of garlic – meaty, not mushy or dry. And remember to augment your selection of Daffodils, Crocus and Tulips with other beauties. For easy April blooms try: Chionodoxa, Scilla and Muscari. For May to June blooms try: Alliums, Hyacinthoides, Leucojum and Eremurus.

And if you buy more bulbs than you can finish planting, remember to store them in a cold (not freezing!), dry location for the winter, like an unheated basement or garage. Then in the early spring you can pot them up and force them for indoor bloom.

Rake leaves early and often before they get matted and moldy, this can save a lot of headaches with your lawn. You can also grind the leaves and compost them with other plant debris, which is not diseased or infested with bad bugs. Remember thick mulch makes a nice cozy place for many pests to over winter, so if you had bad bug problems this past year (like the red lily beetle) clean out as much mulch and debris as you can.

Lawns should be mowed a bit lower than summer months 1 ½ to 2” grass height is ideal and remember to keep mowing as long as the grass keeps growing. Some years that will carry into December. Your lawn will also benefit from a fall application of fertilizer, giving it the carbohydrates needed to help survive winter.

Now is a great time to fertilize trees and shrubs, especially if they did not get a spring application. Do not be tempted to prune them though, until after they are dormant. Pruning now will encourage new growth and instead you want them to save their energy for winter and next spring.

Start Amaryllis bulbs for Holiday blooms. Many species of Amaryllis take 8 weeks or so to bloom, be careful not to over water those bulbs while waiting for growth to start!

Clean, repot and bring in the last of your houseplants. Keep an eye out for freezing temperatures, but I leave my Christmas cactus out as long as possible to try to get it to bloom at Christmas (rather than Thanksgiving).

Thank you to everyone who has sent in ‘Questions for Cory’, keep those great questions coming.

Q. My herb garden did really well this year and I have lots of Parsley and Chives left over. Can I bring the plants inside for winter use?

A. Some herbs like sage, parsley and chives can be harvested now and frozen. I like using little Ziploc bags for storage. Some herbs don’t freeze as well; I haven’t had great luck with Basil. But a friend of mine used to make a massive end-of-season batch of Pesto and freeze dollops of it in an ice cube tray for easy winter use. Also, if you have grow lights some herbs can be brought indoors for continued winter harvest. I have had luck with Rosemary, chive, lemon balm and mint. I am trying basil again this year and I’ll let you know if it is a success.

Questions for Cory?
Send to: Cory Landscape
PO Box 1059
Dedham, MA 02027
cory@corylandscape.com