Bulb Obsession

Ok, so maybe it is a minor obsession. But I do love bulbs and invariably plant new ones every year trying to squeeze in just a little more spring color, earlier spring growth and I suppose to test the limits of my already packed borders. So here is my soliloquy on early spring naturalizing bulbs, some of my favorites and some helpful tips.

Chionodoxa: So bright and so blue, their upturned faces look like spring smiles to me.

Crocus: I prefer planting them in a single color range rather than mixing the purple yellow and white. And for color "Queen of the Blues" is my favorite.

Eranthus: They are so early, and the foliage is so different from most of the other bulbs.

Fritillaria: The small F. meleagris, typically sold as a mix, although I do like to separate the colors and both purple and white are gorgeous.

Galanthus: The first bulb to bloom in my garden, right through the snow if they need to.

Narcissus: Too many to choose from, and every year I have new favorites. But one of my most reliable bloomers and naturalizers "Jack Snipe".

Tips to Care for and Plant Bulbs

• If you want to ‘perennialize’ your bulbs (get them to come back next year) then “Leave the Leaves” until they yellow or turn brown. These important leaves are still gathering energy for next year’s blooms.
• Most common reason that bulbs stop blooming is they get too crowded. Like perennials – dig up and divide in fall for best results.
• Fertilize bulbs with 5-10-5 or similar fertilizer in the spring, after bulbs finish blooming and/or in the fall at bulb planting time. Work about a teaspoon into the top of the soil around each clump.
• Photograph garden while bulbs are in bloom, to remind yourself in the fall of where you want to add bulbs, and which clumps you want to divide.
• Can remove seedpods before they mature (except Scilla) to divert energy into next spring’s flowers.
• Most bulbs should be planted 2 to 3 times as deep as the bulb height.
• Plant in October in our area, not so warm that they put out flowers, but warm enough that they develop roots before ground freezes.
• Most bulbs don’t like too much shade or wet soils. See individual culture descriptions for exceptions.
• Squirrels, Moles, Voles, Deer, etc. will dig up or eat many bulbs. Planting them under dense ground cover (such as Vinca) or perennials can help. If problem continues focus on Deer and rodent resistant bulbs or use bulb cages.
• Misshapen leaves often signify virus infections, dig up and discard bulbs – can spread and kill other bulbs.

First Signs of Spring

Welcome March and the first signs of spring! What, you don't believe me? I promise the signs are there -early bulbs are working their way up through the mud and leaf debris, Witch-hazel (Hamamelis) is blooming, and Pieris buds are swelling. If you haven’t seen the signs yet, here are some things to look for and a few tips to get spring jumping in your garden:

The last month has been very wet and windy, so start by checking your trees, large shrubs and any garden walls or fences for damage. As go about your early spring clean up tasks try to avoid the soggy areas. Excessive traffic on a wet lawn and garden beds can cause poor aeration and root damage.

Check your houseplants for bugs; inspect the underside of leaves and any stalks for outbreaks of aphids, mealy bugs and spider mites. A simple shower with a mild soap can often stop these pests before they flourish and a stronger treatment is needed.Fertilize your emerging bulbs. If you did not get to it last fall, work a few spoonfuls of bulb fertilizer into the top 2” of soil around the emerging bulbs. Be careful not to damage the new growth.

Start your vegetable garden by sowing indoors the seeds of broccoli, cauliflower, and lettuce; but wait until late March to start your peppers, eggplant and tomatoes. If you have limited garden space, many varieties of these veggies can be grown in large pots on a sunny Patio or Deck.

Sharpen, oil and replace as necessary your garden tools before you need to use them. Hopefully you are more diligent than I, who in wandering around this morning discovered a trowel and some pruning shears hiding in the beds. The shears are beyond help, but the trowel just needs a little cleaning and it will be fine. And don’t forget to sharpen the blades of your lawnmower too!

Consider increasing your shrub border and reducing lawn area. A well-designed shrub border can provide 4-season interest with less maintenance and less water us than a typical lawn.

Check your Hemlocks (Tsuga canadensis and Tsuga caroliniana) for the wooly adelgid. Look along the underside of branches for fluffy white matter. These are the eggs. If you find some on your trees you can treat with Horticultural oils (which are safe for humans and wildlife) on dry days when the weather is over 45’, or consult a certified arborist.

Thank you to everyone who has sent in ‘Questions for Cory’, keep those great questions coming. I will try my best to answer those questions here.

Q. I found a large beetle in my attic and have heard about the Asian Beetle problem in Western Mass. Is this the same issue?

A. Great question! Most likely the beetle, which found its way into your home is the Western Conifer Seedbug, they often come in through attic vents and small cracks around windows, along with Ladybugs. This beetle (Leptoglossus occidentalis) is large enough to be surprising but is essentially harmless to you, your home and your plants (unless you are trying to harvest your conifer seeds). For more information: http://ento.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/western-conifer-seedbug

The other part of your question has to do with the Asian Longhorn Beetle (Anoplophora glabripennis), which is a threat to many hardwood trees and yes there has been some very interesting and aggressive quarantining happening in Massachusetts west of Rt. 140 in an effort to stop this pests’ progress. The trees, which are most susceptible, include all Maples, Birches, Elms, Horsechestnuts, and Willows. For more information, check out the USDA info site: http://www.beetlebusters.info/

Fun in the Shade

Often clients ask me, “Does anything colorful grow in the shade?” and my response is a litany of shade loving genus: “Leucothoe, Clethra, Epimedium, Acetea (formerly Cimicifuga), Heuchera, Tiarella, Bergenia" and so on. Although, it may be encouraging to hear that the list of available plants is long, pictures are often needed to illustrate the point. And I understand, I too am a VERY visual person.In this Patio garden, we have a tapestry colorful perennials ranging from part shade to full shade. Since the beds are small and human proximity is so close, we have jammed the beds full and rely heavily on texture and colored foliage to keep your eye excited and interested as you view the garden.

A close up in this bed shows the layering of plants, and notice how the dark purple red of the Actaea is picked up in the veining of the Athyrium? A happy accident, which I have since repeated, and repeated. Shown:

Epimedium, Athyriu

m and Actaea (formerly Cimicifuga).

Another close up, this in one of the shadiest areas of this garden, small details are used in this

space, because it is seen from a stationary spot so your eye has time to drink in the details. Shown: Hosta, Asarum, Dicentra, Athyrium and

When viewed from a distance, masses of shrubs and large perennials may be needed, but even in the shade many species have great foliage and blooms to brighten up dark corners.

Shown: Anemone, Itea, Cornus, Nepeta and Clethra.

Small irregularly shaped stepping-stones require

one to look

down, rewarding your eyes with this delicate spring display. Shown: Galium, Stachys and Veronica.

Even in this tough spot, east side of the house, very narrow bed and under the shade of this Cherry Tree (Prunus) these hard working plants put up a great display. Shown: Hakonechloa, Tiarella and Bergenia.

“When your work speaks for itself, don’t interrupt.”

- Henry J. Kaiser

October in the Garden

Harvesting, putting your garden to bed and preparing for next spring are the biggest tasks this month. This means raking leaves, planting garlic, mowing the lawn and planting your spring flowering bulbs! October is still a great time to plant trees and shrubs, the ground typically wont freeze until mid December so plants should have several weeks of root growth before going completely dormant.

Picking pumpkins should wait until they are completely orange. They will continue to ripen on the vine as long as temps stay above freezing. If you didn’t get a chance to grow pumpkins in your own garden this year, there are some great U-Pick-It farms around. The Massachusetts Department of Agriculture has a comprehensive list by county: http://www.mass.gov/agr/massgrown/pumpkin_pyo.htm

Spring Flowering Bulbs, if you haven’t made your selections yet, there are lots of good deals and places to get bulbs. The key to selecting healthy bulbs is to pick ones that have weight to them. Pick your bulbs as you would an onion or clove of garlic – meaty, not mushy or dry. And remember to augment your selection of Daffodils, Crocus and Tulips with other beauties. For easy April blooms try: Chionodoxa, Scilla and Muscari. For May to June blooms try: Alliums, Hyacinthoides, Leucojum and Eremurus.

And if you buy more bulbs than you can finish planting, remember to store them in a cold (not freezing!), dry location for the winter, like an unheated basement or garage. Then in the early spring you can pot them up and force them for indoor bloom.

Start Amaryllis bulbs for Holiday blooms. Many species of Amaryllis take 8 weeks or so to bloom, and be careful not to over water those bulbs while waiting for growth to start!

Lawns should be mowed for as long as the grass keeps growing. Some years that will carry into December. Your lawn will also benefit from a fall application of fertilizer, giving it the carbohydrates needed to help survive winter. Rake leaves early and often before they get matted and moldy, this can save a lot of lawn related headaches. Also, take note of areas with crabgrass, nothing can be done at the moment, but note those problem areas and apply a preemergent early next spring to get a jumpstart on controlling that weed.

Now is a great time to fertilize trees and shrubs, especially if they did not get a spring application. Do not be tempted to prune them though, until after they are dormant. Pruning now will encourage new growth and instead you want them to save their energy for winter and next spring.

Clean, repot and bring in the last of your houseplants. Keep an eye out for freezing temperatures, but I leave my Christmas cactus out as long as possible to try to get it to bloom at Christmas (rather than Thanksgiving). The Christmas Cactus needs 12 to 14 hours of dark each day to trigger the set of blooms, and there is some evidence to show that bright outdoor lights may upset this process so be sure your plants are shaded from artificial light to ensure good bud set.

Thank you to everyone who has sent in ‘Questions for Cory’, keep those great questions coming.

Q. My Iris are taking over the garden, can I move them now? Or should I wait until the spring?

A. This is a great time to divide and relocate spring blooming perennials. Siberian Iris (Iris sibirica), in particular, benefit from dividing every 3 years. If you have noticed a lack of foliage growth or reduced blooms in the center of the plant, this is most likely an indication that your Iris needs to be divided. Also, go ahead and divide or relocate hardy perennial herbs such as Mint, Chive, Oregano, Tarragon and Lemon Balm. This year many early flowering perennials were very prolific with seed production and their “Offspring” have cropped up all over the garden. Volunteers from worthy garden plants such as: Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla), Columbine (Aquilegia), Foxglove (Digitalis) and Goat’s Beard (Aruncus) can be relocated or shared with neighbors and friends.

September in the Garden

September is a great time to catch up in the garden. Weeding, seeding, planting and dividing are all good chores for September, and in many cases it is the best time for landscape projects. Here are some suggestions to get you started.

Fall is a great time to also plant many trees and shrubs. Look for plants with healthy leaves and strong stems or trunks. Also take a tour of the Arnold Arboretum to see what those shrubs, trees and vines may look like in a few years. They have free, guided tours available as well easy self-guided gardens such as the Leventritt shrub and vine garden.

Divide and replant perennials such as Iris, Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum), Hosta and others that have thrived in your yard. Share the surplus with friends and neighbors, also many perennials freely self-sow (Echinacea, Digitalis, Coreopsis and others), these “Babies” are easy to dig up and share as well.

Chances are if they work in your yard they will work in others.

Reseed bare spots in your lawn, September is best time of year, whether you are repairing bare patches or creating a new lawn. And remember that seed needs a little bit of water every day to germinate effectively, just enough water to moisten not drown the seeds.

Later this month, dig up your ‘tender bulbs’ Gladioli, Cannas, and Dahlias. Trim off the brown shoots and roots and store in a cool dry place for the winter.

Start repotting houseplants in preparation to bringing them back indoors. I scatter my houseplants all over my yard, under shrubs or in bare spots in the garden and typically I forget one poor plant and lose it to frost.

Thank you to everyone who has sent in ‘Questions for Cory’. I will try my best to answer those questions here.

Q. My Hydrangeas are huge this year and I want to prune them back. Is this a good time to do it?

A. Great question. And for the most part I would say yes, but there are several species of Hydrangea and not all have the same requirements, so here is a more thorough answer. Smooth Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) – Big white blooms in June, this shrub blooms on new wood, so I would prune this shrub in winter or early spring. Most common cultivar is “Annabelle”. Bigleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) – Probably the most common Hydrangea, white or blue blooms of mophead or lace cap form. This shrub blooms on old wood so pruning should happen right after blooming stops or you run the risk of pruning off next year’s flowers. That said, the new Endless Summer hybrids have taken out all the guesswork and worry for us. These plants bloom on new and old wood, and bloom for a full 3 months, so prune these shrubs whenever you feel like it with little consequences. Panicle Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) – This shrub has made a huge comeback in standard form and with prettier cultivars. The latest blooming of the Hydrangeas, this shrub also blooms on new wood so winter or spring pruning is best. Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia) – The easiest to tell apart due to the leaf shape (shaped like Oak leaves), this shrub blooms in June on old wood so DO NOT PRUNE now! Pruning is best done in early July right after it blooms, and the flower buds can be subject to winter kill with temps below -15’. Also, keep in mind the 1/3 rule – “Never prune off more than 1/3 of a plant in one year”.

August Gardening Chores

Reclaiming your garden. Weeding is a perennial chore (pun intended) but this year weeds seem to have thrived more than usual. I blame the rain, but whatever the reason, the weeds are taking over and have buried half of my perennial garden. The half, which seemed to be doing the best this year are part shade plants which were not overwhelmed by all the rain and lack of sun this summer. For instance Daylilies (Hemerocallis), False Dragon’s Head (Physostegia) and Fall blooming Windflower (Anemone) have bloomed quite vigorously this year and spread. So this fall will be a wonderful time to divide those plants, and maybe share some with friends or neighbors.

Powdery mildew has been a real problem this summer with the rain and high humidity, this

fungi looks like baby powder coating leaves of perennials, shrubs and even trees. The fungus can be treated with a fungicide or even a simple solution of baking soda. Also, make sure that

there is plenty of air circulation around the plant. If your Monarda, Roses, Paeonias and Phlox (etc.) are infected, thin out the plants and dispose of the infected leaves (not in your compost!) as the fungus can over winter.

Bulb catalogues are starting to fill up mailboxes. Before you place your order, find those pictures of your spring garden and determine which bulbs are ready to be divided or moved and then select your additional plants. Keep in mind that bulb planting shouldn’t start before October. You can get some great discounts by ordering early and responsible companies won’t ship them until proper planting time. But for the others, be sure you have a cool, dry place to store your bulbs until you can plant them.

Consider keeping your lawns longer, mow at 2 1/2” to 3”. The UMass Turf department reminds us that longer blades of grass directly correlate to deeper roots (and deeper roots need less frequent watering).

Thank you to everyone who has sent in ‘Questions for Cory’. I will try my best to answer those questions here.

Q. I would love to see you post some advice, and or pics of pruning a lilac. I have one that is 8 feet high, gangly and in need of a severe pruning.

A. This is such a great question, and Common Lilac (Syringa vulgaris)

does get gangly and top heavy and a healthy plant can rebound quickly from very aggressive pruning. So don’t be shy.

Here is how I typically approach rejuvenating or “hard pruning” Lilacs: start by taking out the oldest wood, the gnarly, desiccated branches in which insects are probably making homes. If they have open cavities, signs of borer insects or breaks then prune them all the way to the ground, if they are relatively healthy, then hard prune them leaving 18” from ground to top of branch.

Step back and look at the shrub, and surrounding area. Chances are the growth is at the top third of the plant, and the plant is probably 3’ taller than you want it to be. Which means that you will be removing 90% of the foliage to bring the shrub down to the height you want. For a Common Lilac (Syringa vulgaris), this is OK. Next step, I take out about half of the main branches, so if you have 12 main branches to your shrub, pick the 6 oldest, weakest, or most poorly shaped and prune them to the ground. Leaving 6 strong, straight and healthy branches. Then, if you want your ultimate shrub height to be 5’, prune your remaining branches to 4’ tall (1’ less than desired height). This picture shows a Lilac 4 weeks after we pruned as described above. Notice all the healthy, new growth at the base of the plant. This new growth will continue to grow and "fill in" the skeletal area framed by the old branches left behind.

There are lots of other methods and approaches to pruning Common Lilacs (Syringa vulgaris). And healthy Lilacs will tolerate almost anything, so feel (to use my daughters new favorite word) empowered and go for it. This method is not the same you would use for other shrubs or other species of Lilac, like Meyer Lilacs (Syringa meyer “Miss Kim”) or other small leaved Lilacs, which have a different growth habit and often a single main stem.

The best time to prune Lilacs is early June, after the blooms have faded. But if you missed the window and can’t wait until next year, just be sure to fertilize your shrubs after pruning, and water regularly for the next two months. And keep in mind that Lilacs (like other European plants) benefit from annual liming.

And my last note on Lilacs, I have seen scale (Peach scale?) and aphids on a lot more Lilacs this year. And scale is a nightmare to get rid of, so be sure to clean your tools between pruning jobs, especially if sharing with neighbors. It will help slow the spread of some of these insects.

July Gardening Chores

With all the rain we have had this June, watering has not been a big issue in the garden. But the lack of sun has presented some challenges. Many sun-loving annuals (Including vegetables) are significantly smaller than normal at this time of year, new grass has not filled out (lawns need water and sun to get established) and many plants are infected with powdery mildew, fungi and rusts. Treat these infected plants now, clip off and discard the damaged leaves. Also wash your pruning shears after doing so, to reduce the spread of infection to other plants in your yard.

With July on the way, watering will probably take a front seat in the garden chores department again. And proper watering techniques are crucial to your plants continued health and growth though the summer. Long, soaking watering sessions a few times a week is best. These deep soakings are best for most plants and plantings other than germinating seeds. Use soaker hoses or other ground level sprinklers to quickly get the water where the plants need it – to the roots. Running your lawn sprinklers 

at mid-day, in full sun on a hot day, is not efficient watering. Most of the water will evaporate before it reaches the roots of your thirsty plants. This can also scorch the leaves of many garden plants, similar to applying baby oil to your skin and running around in full sun.

“Volcano Mulching” is NOT a good mulching practice. 

This method of mulching is actually the exact opposite of any known proper mulching technique. Mulch SHOULD NOT touch the bark or trunks of trees and shrubs, applying mulch in this fashion will only invite mildew, fungus, insects and diseases to move in. Also if the mulch is highest around the trunk and lowest at the outside drip line, you are pushing all the water away from the tree or shrub 

roots. “Proper Mulching” (about 2” to 3” deep) should be flush to grade or create a “water well” (small lip of mulch encircling the trunk) about 

the same width as the root ball. Mulching in this Proper Mulching fashion can help reduce water evaporation at the root level where plants need it the most, it helps keep down weeds (which compete with your plants for sun, water and other nutrients; and it keeps the soil temperature up to 25’ cooler which promotes better root development.

Also if you are heading off on vacation this month, mow and water your lawn before you leave. When mowing your lawn follow the 1/3 rule. Cut no more than 1/3 of the grass blade in a 

single mowing. This reduces the stress to the remaining blade and ensures the clippings are small enough to be left in place for ‘mulching’ as they quickly decompose. The best schedule I have found is to water your lawn in the early morning and then mow in the early evening. This way cut 

blades are not exposed to the drying heat of the day.

Other garden chores for July: Prune sucker growths on tomato plants, for the best fruit production. Suckers are additional shoots, which form where a leaf connects to the main stem. And to avoid blossom rot or cracking of the tomato skin, keep the soil around your tomato plants evenly moist. Mulching can help.

When harvesting blueberries, remember to leave them on the bush for several days after they have turned blue for the sweetest flavor. Netting your bushes will help prevent the birds from eating your berries before you do.

Deadheading (removing spent blooms) of many annuals and perennials will encourage repeat blooms. Also an aggressive prune of many perennials such as Nepeta and Salvia now, will promote new growth and flowers for late summer.

And towards the end of this month, stop watering any Amaryllis you are trying to hold over from last winter (even if it has green leaves), and move them to a cool, dark spot (unfinished basement is what I use). Leave the bulbs in their pots untended until October. A colleague of mine recommended turn the pots on their side so you don’t accidentally water them.

Thank you to everyone who has sent in ‘Questions for Cory’, keep those great questions coming.
Q. I have a Bleeding Heart on the side of my house along the driveway, next to a row of large Hostas. It was the first plant to show it's head this spring with lots of beautiful deep pink blossoms. It looked so healthy and vibrant, but now the leaves are starting to look dried out (even though I water when we don't get a lot of rain). Do you know what this could be or what I can do?
A. I suspect your first instinct is correct, and your Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis) is drying out. Dicentra is a great shade plant, like Hosta, but it is a bit pickier about soil. Dicentra prefers cool and moist soil, and being next to a driveway can be a tough location. Even if you are watering, in the summer the sun heats up the driveway and that heat dries the surrounding soil. If (after the past week of cool and rainy weather) the plant perks up, and you can see new growth at the soil level, this would be a good indicator that your Dicentra should be moved. Try Narcissus (Daffodils) in the same location for an early spring bloom, they did not mind the dry summer soil.